i feel pretty safe here in hawaii with our military, coast guard, police, and aloha. when i go on boat trips in indonesia, i know i have a great chance to be lost at sea. but in hawaii, people respond really fast. and most of the times they won’t give up until they find you.

and with our military here, you’d be crazy to mess with our island.

i caught a wave yesterday at diamond head. i rarely longboard out there but when i do, i get a different view of things. more time to appreciate the waves, the people, and the beautiful green mountain called diamond head.

when you want to turn left, look left! not down!

then as i looked to see if my camera was on or not, i looked down and fell down. haha. i didn’t realize i stepped on a piece of black tar oil on the beach. that’s why i have a black spot on my foot. shame on you boats that spill oil!

still tripping out on the monster tako!!! imagine this monster was on my head trying to eat me. it was funny, but at the same time, pretty scary when i think about it. i’m going to eat every single piece of this big monster!

My favorite trips: Boat Trips!
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore 3′ and junky conditions.
South shore knee/waist hight and very clean.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
North winds at 10mph.
Cloudy morning becoming super sunny.
Cool warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

today was one of those days where you just have to know the ocean. the winds and weather was so bad this morning that most spots were junky and ugly. if you went anywhere from waikiki to makaha, you got skunked. but if you went around the corner to diamond head, you had fun. Kenji-san and Chisako-san are 2 cool surfers that love to surf!

so happy to be in the super green diamond head mountain. walking down the trail is tiring, but when you reach the beach, it’s all worth it.

from waikiki to makaha was super dark and ugly this morning. but diamond head was blue sky all day!

like i said, once you reach the beach, it’s all worth it! here is where the fun begins!

beautiful warm water and beautiful blue sky.

when we first paddled out, there were only a few surfers. lucky! here is Kenji-san and Chisako-san going for the same wave.

Kenji-san surfs really good. he’s one of those really happy surfers!

Chisako-san waiting for the next wave.

and it was a perfect one!

i can’t believe she walked the board!!! OMG, she just took a step and it was beautiful!

pure stoke! i always say “only a surfer knows the feeling!” and Chiaki-san knows exactly what i’m talking about.

another day of meeting 2 awesome surfers. thank you both for the wonderful surf, pho, and laughs.

normally when you look from the top, the waves look better than it really is. but today, it looked not the greatest from the top, but it was freaking awesome from the water. we scored!

hawaii is home and i’m really happy to enjoy it with everybody. surf your dreams!