Ayaka-chan did a great job surfing! she got up to her feet really fast and surfed so good!

this is a cool photo with her father Uetani-san on the side riding the same wave.

perfect balance, style, and commitment. good job Ayaka-chan!

Uetani-san caught some good waves! nice bottom turn!

and very nice cross step!

then Masamune on day 2 of surfing with me. he caught over 20 waves and kept on going and going.

always stoked to be surfing aside. sharing is caring!

and look at this kids smile. a smile surfing brings out in everybody! see you again today Masamune! surf and yoga?

i’m getting better at longboarding. i can hang 5 easily but can’t hang 5 and take a photo at the same time. i kept on trying but i just couldn’t get the right angle.

cutback with spray. 60% pressure on the back foot for power, and 40% pressure on the front foot to steer.

i’m going to keep on practicing until i can hang 10. it’s a great feeling riding a wave on the nose.

Everyday in the Office! I love the feeling!!!
Good morning 6:30am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good! But much better in the afternoons! Diamond Head head high and side offshore winds.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing and travel planning.
Have a wonderful day!

it’s peak typhoon season in japan now and nothing is happening at this moment. i was planning to go to chase another typhoon from wednesday but thinking about not going. everybody is telling me the waves are flat and it’s still freaking hot. so now, i have to think of another plan.

look what’s brewing off the pacific coast of mexico. puerto escondido might be 10′ and barreling. watching this one closely as my attention shifts to the east. and then again, there is a solid 6′ south swell coming to hawaii on thursday. gosh, i’m so confused!!! but like always, i will decide that morning and take it from there. whatever happens happens.

diamond head from the lookout. multimillion dollar homes.

another view of diamond head from the lookout. i took this photo because i’m the kind of guy that likes to be 2 places at the same time. i want to be surfing on that perfect wave, and i want to be sailing on that sailboat to molokai. either one, i’m happy. both would be like heaven!

i had a great time surfing with Yano-san this afternoon. we surfed for over 3 hours and the waves were uncrowded and epic! it’s Yano-san’s first time in hawaii and his first surf session at a reef break. he caught over 30 waves and did a couple cool cutbacks! great surfing Yano-san!

from the parking lot, we seen a pretty awesome rainbow.

and always good to see surfer friends all around the island. what a great world us surfers live in.

finally downloaded the past few days of photos onto my computer. front row seat priceless moments coming tomorrow!

and yes, it was barreling where we were surfing today. check out my awesome view! and it was also getting bigger and bigger so tomorrow i’m looking forward to spending some time in the barrel again. good night!