Very Thankful Surf Day!

November 29, 2013

today is thanksgiving day in hawaii and today is a day to be thankful. i woke up and checked the waves, it was small so i thought i’d stay home and work. but today wasn’t a holiday for a reason, i turned off my computer and went to the beach with my friends.

i drive to the north shore and look at laniakea. OMG, the most people i’ve ever seen in my life. i knew i could have paddled out and caught waves but no way for my friends from japan. so i thought today would be a day to enjoy a day of surfing at my super secret spot. a spot i only take people i trust so they won’t tell anybody else. and if they do, they aren’t my friends anymore. really, it’s that special and that secret to me.

we park the car, no need check the waves because i already knew exactly how it was going to be. head high sets and nobody out. well, there were 2 guys out but can’t help because it’s a holiday.

i catch a few, then come in and take some photos to share the moment, and share this beautiful day. Toda-san on a super glassy left.

SUP power cutback!

Takami-san caught the most waves out there today. just good sense and good riding.

imagine having a session with perfect waves and great friends.

Takahashi-san had a great session today. o’yeah!

i let him try my magic board and it was magic! o’yeah!

David from okinawa ripping!

Toda-san can probably eat a whole turkey by himself.

Takami-san wouldn’t let Toda-san eat a turkey by himself.

Takahashi-san always teases me. but i just have to think that’s his love. haha.

David, don’t tell anybody where we surfed today!

colors with Hikaru-san.

then met some other friends up at off the wall. full photos coming tomorrow. Judy-chan, Jen, and Mari-chan.

i shot 1000 photos yesterday. shot, surfed, talked, and had fun. here is a photo i really like of Mari-chan and Judy-chan paddling out in paradise.
was driving home thinking how fortunate i have such great friends. today is a day to be thankful and i’m very thankful of you all. my life wouldn’t be the same without each and every one of you. thank you from the bottom of my heart.