i get up yesterday morning and look outside my window. seen the biggest moon!!! yes, in the morning! so i get out my camera, take a photo, and decide to take photos all day long.

passing by magic island looking from the channel. i pass these trees 10x a week and still think it’s so cool!

then looking at bowls from Mayuki. 3 guys on a wave? sometimes i’m in the mood so i go out there, but most of the times i’m not so i pass it by and go check my secret spot.

i pull up and see perfect unridden barrels. people ask me why nobody surfs here? first, you need a boat. second, you can’t be afraid of 15′ tiger sharks. that’s why i end up surfing there all by myself.

then i look out and see a sailboat in distress. there was no wind so it was just stopped in the ocean getting pushed into the waves. i hear the captain yelling “F!@K!!!” i knew exactly where he was so i just watched from far away through my lens. after i see him get out his paddle and try to paddle that big boat with a small paddle, i knew he was desperate.

i see a sailboat just go right on by.

then i see a another boat pull by to help. there’s no way that little boat could pull that big boat. i watch for 20 minutes more and see the boat getting pushed into the big waves and reef. that’s when i knew it was time to rescue the guy.

i pull by, back up, connect the tow rope, and tow him out to safety. after it’s all done, that captain says “thanks dude, you saved my life.” that’s cool because one day that captain might save mine too.

Yesterday at Diamond Head. Full Gallery coming today! Check back later.
Good morning 5am.
North shore 3′ and fun at Laniakea.
South shore 2-3′ and good at Diamond Head.
Light tradewinds at 10mph in the morning, maybe onshore in the afternoon. Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

the past 3 days have been absolutely perfect! waves around the island from the 2 hurricanes. south, north, east, and west shores all good size with perfect conditions. i haven’t seen diamond head this good for this long in a while. i counted over 100 surfers out yesterday and today. everybody having fun!

and when there is no parking at diamond head, you know the waves are good and glassy.

this morning i got up early because i had a mission. first catch good waves, second, catch good fish. the conditions couldn’t have been better!

i pull up to tiger point and like usual, nobody out. surfed it for 2 hours with just the sharks. dream session!

i had a very important dinner tonight at a very good chinese restaurant with friends so i wanted to get some fish. all i had on my mind was 2 kumu’s. once i got 2, i was going to come in. the waves were big and the water was so murky. you couldn’t see anything for the first 30′, then it got clear. i blind dive a few times and luckily call in some nice size munu’s. it was pretty scary because i was diving by myself in the shark infested waters. i know the big tigers were watching me. i spear 2 in the head and speed back to the harbor.

i put them in a bag and took it to the chinese restaurant. my instructions were: clean um, steam um, put some ginger and onion on um, pour hot peanut oil over um, and serve um to us at exactly 7pm. everything went perfect!

this on the menu would cost $100. but tonight, it was free. live off the land, and respect the land. everybody happy, me too.
tomorrow more epic waves and my life in the ocean continues. have 7 people to take surfing tomorrow and i’m looking forward to the good waves and great smiles. good night.