OMG! Diamond Head is perfect right now!!!!

this is japan yesterday. this is shikoku. this is a real typhoon. japan gets hit by 20 or so typhoons every year so you can say that this is normal for them. people die, people get hurt, and people lose houses. it’s just a part of life as typhoon season runs from june to october. i hope everybody is safe.

and when the typhoon spins off the coast, it produces perfect waves for everyone. i will never forget this day at a secret spot in japan surfing only with the locals. this is japan surf culture. when i got back to hawaii, a lot of my friends asked me to take them for the next typhoon. my answer for the past 20 years has always been “sorry dude.”

Wow!
Good morning 6am.
Small waves today.
Waist hight at Ala Moana.
Chest high at Diamond Head.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Super sunny sky.
No hurricanes anymore.
Surfing all day!
See you in the water!