it’s so sad again watching the news reporting no water anywhere again. i’ve seen people with my own eyes buying way too much water. just pure panic and not thinking about others. these natural disasters really bring out the worst in people. i’m pretty bummed that i can’t even go to the store to buy a single bottle of water for myself. but sitting back and watching this panic makes me realize how i want to live my life, and how i don’t want to live my life.

yesterday was just a super beautiful day! morning and afternoon was just so empty in the ocean. i guess everybody was out buying up all the water? haha.

feels so good to ride a wave by yourself. and it feels so good to go right or left without running somebody over.

i still can’t believe how empty the ocean is. hey guys, the hurricane is coming on sunday! not yet!

i love my job, but it gets dangerous at times. i was riding on the side of Watanabe-san yesterday and i started yelling “yeah!!!” my mistake. he looked at me and if you look at me, either your board or body is coming straight for me after. in this case, it was board.

this is a fisheye lens so the board was about 6 inches from me. luckily i hit it away with my hand.

still can’t get over how crazy this birthday night was. i was actually out of control! one of those times i felt like jumping off the boat in the middle of the night. i hope i don’t get like that again at least for a few years.

i’ve been so busy these past 5 years or so that i haven’t had the quality time to spend with friends. i’m glad i had 12 days with my special friends giving each other the love and attention we all need. this is how it use to be when we all had simple lives.

i get asked all the time where the best diving is. well, i went on a boat trip to Komodo in Indonesia 3 years ago. i did a few scuba dives and couldn’t believe my eyes. i haven’t seen that many fish in my life!!! if i had my speargun, i would have been a millionaire in that week i was there. i kind of want to go back someday because i still can’t believe how much wildlife there was! just walls and walls of fish!

$12,000 for this Mobile House? Cool!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-3′ and really clean.
South shore chest high and really clean.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Wind and rain coming later.
But still good waves.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

every since i got back from indo, i’ve been craving fresh salads. maybe that’s why i feel so dam healthy recently. eat healthy, feel healthy.

and of course i can’t live a day without my miso soup.

had party wave time with Mr. and Mrs. Saito-san today. 2 days ago, Shuko-san didn’t know how to surf so she went shopping instead. today, it was her debut and i was so stoked to see her stand up on her first wave! now she is hooked! these honeymooner’s now have something else in common, surfing! a great bond to a great future ahead.

then it was acai bowl time at the health cove. the best in hawaii.

stoked to meet this wonderful couple. Saito-san surfed super good too. level up from 2 days ago. both are hooked on surfing, and hooked on hawaii. Saito-san and Shuko-san are already planning next years trip. haha. take care and see you surfers again!

then i took Watanabe-san surfing again this afternoon. compared to 2 days ago, he is much healthier, much more energetic, and much more better in surfing. louder laughs, and bigger smiles today. great job Watanabe-san.

Watanabe-san’s wife and parents are here now so after surf the other day, we went to get malasada’s to take back to the hotel. today, he took back bubbies mochi ice cream. i’m sure they enjoyed every sweet bite!

i seriously should be a treasure hunter. i was paddling out to rock piles and seen something weird 6′ deep. i know it wasn’t the reef, i know it wasn’t a fish. so i dive down, open my eyes, and see $70! yeah, i just bought this exact fin a few months ago and paid $70 for it. and i didn’t even have a mask. score!
as i was driving home this evening, i was very happy about today. i taught 3 wonderful people surfing and all of them improved so much just from 2 days ago. we all know the feeling of improvement and when you have a great session, you have a great smile. they all told me how happy they were today but i forgot to tell them how happy i was too. to have a job that can make people happy is the best job in the world. it’s so rewarding and so reviving. surfing is my life and hawaii is my home. so to be able to teach surfing and teach about hawaii, i’m living a golden life. i’m going to sleep with a big smile once again and i’m looking forward to waking up tomorrow and doing it all again. good night.