The waves are so good now!!!
Three rounds.
Stoked!

Typhoon swell here.
Long drive.
Dawn patrol.
Barrels.
Paddle.
Tired.
I’m so happy and it’s only 7:50am!!!
Take a nap and surf again. And again!
Have a wonderful day!!!

every time i go to wakayama, i really look forward to breakfast. this is a dream breakfast for me and i want to thank Atsuko-san for always making my dream come true!

yamari shirasu is the best over hot rice!

i went to watch the local people do their daily exercise at 7am every morning. i think that’s cool!

grandpa and grandson starting the day off right. what a cool culture in the country.

the last time i took Ryonosuke surfing, i thought he would never go with me again. i kind of pushed him hard and he was only 5 years old at that time. this time i asked him to go surfing, he said “yes.” really? i was stoked! we took it slow, i taught him everything again from the beginning, and i didn’t think he would stand up.

i pushed him on his first wave and he stood right up. i was screaming so loud because i was so happy. i can’t wait to take him again!!! Ryonosuke is such a cute kid!!!

then i jumped into the yamari van, buckled my seatbelt, and started off for the long journey to shikoku all alone. i needed some time alone to reflect on my life, how it’s going, and where i want to take it. so catching the 2 hour ferry and driving another 2 hours gave me that time of peace. and all i was thinking about were the waves. haha.

i drive on the ferry and i’m always amazed on the system. just perfect and on time. i love it.

i get out my book, my computer, my headphones, and get ready for some relax time. i ended up falling asleep right away.

then headed to the TSSC factory to pick up my new boards. so stoked to arrive there after such a long drive.

then to the TSSC shop to wax 3 magic new boards up.

i feel like a kid getting a new toy every time i get a new board. waxing it up while talking story with Yassan. always good to have a good board, good sponsor, and good friend that supports me.
had a great surf in the evening and my boards working like magic! swell should be building today and tomorrow and the more south i drive, the bigger it gets. i’m so happy to be here in japan traveling alone and enjoying this beautiful country. i feel like i’m in a really good place now. thank you so much for everything!