i’ve been surfing in town my whole life. people are saying this is the best swell in 10 years. here’s what i think. there has been consistent swell for the past 30 days. this past 4 days has been incredible. for size, i think last year was bigger. as for conditions, i don’t remember the last time the conditions were this good. luckily i got to take Mayuki out and check every spot on the south shore these past few days. and everywhere i checked, it was perfect. perfect swell direction, perfect winds, perfect size, and perfect everything. so in my eyes, this past swell was the best ever for me as a surfer on the south shore. surfing my secret spot yesterday made me realize how lucky i am to be living in hawaii. and if you ask me how this summer was? the best ever too! i am completely surfed out. so tired and burnt. i’m going on a boat for 12 days to indonesia this weekend and i really don’t have any energy left to surf. good thing half of us are divers because that’s where i want to be. welcome to the endless summer again!!!

bowls is crowded and if expect to get dropped in on. sometimes a simple sorry will work, sometimes it won’t.

this wave, the bodyboarder got the best of it.

good to see Daniel Jones out in the water surfing and shooting. good kid!

i’m going out the channel slowly watching the waves. i see a set coming as 10 guys start paddling wild for it. i spot my nephew Isaiah Moniz. inside my head, i’m saying “come on Isaiah, take it!!!” maybe he heard me as i see the other 9 guys back off. Isaiah takes off, puts his hand in the wave to slow down and wait for the barrel, and does it so flawlessly.

i see him pull into the barrel, i shoot my 400mm lens into the barrel. we are 50′ away but looking eye to eye. inside my head, i’m saying “good boy!” i just love this kid!
more south swells coming this weekend. surf your dream!

The Point.
Only us!
Perfect waves!
2pm Hawaii time.
Team Ina.

yesterday was another beautiful day and the best way to spend it was on the ocean! jumped on Mayuki and headed out to check out some secret spots. the good thing is every single spot was absolutely perfect! no wind, big swell, and perfect weather! score again!

it’s been years since i seen diamond head so perfect! i couldn’t believe how long and good the waves were.

seen another pod of dolphins again today. dolphins have been giving us really good luck.

and dolphins keep the big sharks away too.

i was driving home and couldn’t believe how hot it was!!! 34 degrees celsius is 93 degrees fahrenheit. OMG! i don’t remember the last time hawaii was this hot! by the way, i’ve been listening to 97.1 FM in hawaii and loving it! try it!

a friend invited me to his friends wedding party the other night. it was pretty cool seeing so many happy japanese celebrating a special moment here in hawaii.

always nice to meet new people. shaka girls!

ok, the waves the past 3 days have been epic! the perfect swell coming from the perfect south/west direction made every single surf spot absolutely perfect. it’s been over 10 years since i’ve seen so many barrels. i got up early and surfed a secret spot where i learned how to surf 35 years ago. only a few friends out and the waves were the best i’ve ever seen it break out there. had barrels of fun!
the swell continues and so does my sunburn. surfers have the greatest life of all!