Hurley Pro @ Trestles, California ON NOW!
http://www.aspworldtour.com/events/2014/mct/708/hurley-pro-at-trestles
Good morning 5:20am.
South swell continues.
Head high with some overhead sets at Diamond Head.
PERFECT conditions. NO wind!
Super sunny and hot day again.
Going Naminori.
Have a wonderful day!

the last time i went to kobochihama, we were so lucky to visit on the day of the matsuri! it was such a great experience.

there is a very ancient buddha in that room up on the hill. it’s big and full of history. estimated over 1000 years old and the doors are opened only 1x a year. like i said, we were lucky to see it and as soon as i walked into the room, you could just feel the energy. the buddha was amazing!

survivors. happy faces and happy people. Kiku-chan, Ryoko-san, Kimura-san, and Hiyori-chan: we are family, We Are One!

then i had a very hot day in tokyo so i jumped into the car and did some exploring. took a turn off the steaming concrete jungle and ended up in the cool breeze real jungle. it was so beautiful and hard to believe that there is a place like this in tokyo.

i walked deeper and deeper into the forest and it got greener and greener.

then i stumbled upon a place where samurai’s were believed to visit.

they would come here to cleanse their body and souls.

yes, samurai’s actually sat here and used this water off the waterfall. it was a great adventure and a great learning experience for me. 15 minutes later, i was back into the concrete jungle.

OMG, best swell in years!!!!
So happy and so sunburnt!!!!