left home early morning. checked pipeline in the dark but smelt funny. just didn’t seem right so got back in the car and headed to haleiwa because that was my 2nd choice. turned out to be a great choice because nobody was out again! i pull up and my friend Ronnie was in his car waiting for it to get lighted. i grab my board and walk towards the beach in the dark. then Ronnie yells “eh, you no can even see brah? where you going?” i told him i’m going to paddle out. he said “brah, you crazy!” as i get out in the dark towards the lineup, i felt a lot of current and a lot of energy in the ocean. then there they come! solid 8′ solid sets heading my way. got one, then got another, and i was in the perfect rotation. a guy came out after and told me “brah, i hope to survive and make it to work this morning at 8:30am.” right after he said that, a big and thick freak set broke on our heads.
we always talk about boards. Ronnie was on a 6’8 this morning. i rode my small 6’3 and the reason for that is i couldn’t see how big it was. if i knew it was 8′ again, i would have rode my 6’6 for sure.
i came in after catching 10 solid waves. i was tired from paddling in the raging current and getting two 8′ sets breaking right on my head. so i grab my camera and record the action.
look how beautiful Hayato Maki’s wave is. just a perfect carve on a perfect day.
and right after that, somebody ran over Hayato’s tail. luckily his foot never got sliced off.
driving back to town at 9am. always a very happy drive with a big smile!
then played at home with my cute grand nephew. he’s finally starting to like me as we were playing peek-a-boo. so happy!
then went to surf this evening at bowls. surfed perfect shoulder high waves watching the big orange sun set into the ocean. going to shower, sleep, and do the same thing all over again tomorrow. see you in the lineup at dark!
