opps, forgot to post this 2 days ago….
i set my alarm for 4:30am but end up waking up at 4am. just so excited because there is a high surf advisory, and the buoy jumped up a lot late last night so i knew the waves were going to be big. big, but crowded because it’s a weekend. i get on the freeway for the 50 minute drive.
i get to haleiwa and it was pitch dark. not a single soul or car there. i think i got there to early. haha. i park the car and look at the waves. i couldn’t see anything but i could hear the thundering of the waves. it sounded 15′ hawaiian or 30′ faces. i started getting butterflies in my stomach.
i came this early so i should paddle out this early. i see the moon shining on the ocean so i grab my board and paddle out in pure darkness. to tell you the truth, i was a little scared, but at the same time, more excited than anything. the adrenaline flowing thinking about the huge waves, strong current, and big tiger sharks. i get to the outside, see a big wall building as the moonlight drew a line on its face, i turn around, paddle, take off, and rode my first ever wave in pitch dark haleiwa. i knew it was big but couldn’t actually see how big it was. then i paddle back out and a huge 10′ freak set breaks on my head. that was my cup of coffee. now i was really awake! rode 4 waves all alone hoping somebody would paddle out. then i see Hayato and i don’t think i ever felt happier to see him. haha. 6-8′ solid haleiwa with bigger freak sets. we caught so many good waves and had a dream north shore morning session!
then i came in and talked story with the boys. it felt like a long day and was getting late, but it was still 8:50am. happy local haleiwa surfers with a great start to a great day.
then as i was leaving, there wasn’t any parking left. packed with surfers from all over the world. i forgot that the north shore is the mecca of surfing. i’m glad i got up early, or should i say, i’m glad i got up the earliest.
then the drive home is always happy. just smiling to myself and thinking how lucky i am. it’s still 10am and i have a full day ahead.
got my camera and took some photos. it went from zero to 30 in 2 hours.
then people started dropping in on each other.
again and again. there is only supposed to be one person per wave. the guy riding in the front has very very bad surfing manners.
yes, the waves were perfect if you have the wave all alone. but if some guy drops in on you, it’s not so perfect anymore. it got so crazy that i had to put my camera away and leave.
then i see a huge whale jump and luckily got the photo.
if you ask me how i feel now, i feel great. i had one of the best surf sessions of my life at haleiwa. big huge waves making it feel so good doing carves on. it was like a canvas for a painter. i can’t wait to do it again.
