i left yesterday morning before 6am and got back home at 10pm. just another long day at the office.

i surfed bowls early in the morning for 2 hours. some guys calling this the biggest south swell of the year. i agree!

the waves and weather was perfect! i was sitting in the lineup thinking “hawaii is the best!” ended up having a great session, then went to pick up Shikata-san for session number 2.

sharing is caring!

as we were heading to my secret spot, a pod of dolphins came and lead us the way.

it was so beautiful out in the ocean today!!!

the dolphins aren’t there everyday so being able to see them is a treat.

thank you for a wonderful morning Mr. and Mrs. Shikata-san. good surf, good poke, and good time!

the super combo with hawaiian tako and spicy tuna. $9 including a drink.

diamond head cliffs shot. a must!

diamond head looked really good too. i surfed again for another 2 hours in the afternoon at a secret spot and the waves were going off! just us and the tigers!
today, same thing! see you in the water!

Albino.
Good morning 5:50am.
South swell continues.
Still solid overhead and perfect! 3-4′ and barreling!
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Rainy and cloudy morning becoming sunny later.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

Evening @ Kaimana Beach. Everybody having fun!
Surfed 3 rounds at 6 hours.
Goodnight.