Choose a Job you Love!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
it still amazes me on how surfing can bring out the inner soul and outer muscles. i think surfing brings out the best in people. and it also builds your muscles at the same time. 3.5 years ago, Inaida-san wasn’t looking like this. now, he has a defined chest, biceps and triceps. not too many people his age have this kind of body. and it’s all from surfing!
photo 3
super stoked to see my friend Robbie driving around his new toy. it’s HUGE!
photo 72
yes, another night at my favorite sushi restaurant in the whole world.
photo 73
i forgot what this is called but the sushi chef told me that it cost $900/kilo. so expensive!!! i felt like i ate money!
photo 74
and by far, my favorite. fatty tuna. i could eat a hundred pieces of this.
last, here is a quote i had on my computer for years. i look at it all the time to remind me about love and work.
“CHOOSE A JOB YOU LOVE, AND YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO WORK A DAY IN YOUR LIFE.”

June 18, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Yesterday was so beautiful!
Today will be too!
Good morning 5:40am.
Waist high with chest high sets on the South Shore.
Rockpiles/Kaisers best with the South/East swell.
Clean conditions.
Off shore trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds again @ 5 hours.
Have a wonderful day!

Go and Know!

fd
i’ve been learning a lot about hard work and dedication. i asked a few people if they could polish and clean Mayuki and either they don’t do a good job, or they don’t even show up. so i figure i’d just do it by myself. i spent 3 hours yesterday morning in the hot sun sweating and working hard. it’s a very hard job and now i can appreciate people working hard a lot more.
as
this was yesterday morning after i finished the wax job. perfection! so the moral of the story is “if you want something done right, do it yourself.” simple!
photo 1
this morning i passed by diamond head and i knew it was going to be a very amazing surfing day. surfed 2 rounds, boat ride, and yakiniku dinner. left at 7am, came back at 9pm. happy, but very tired.
photo 2
i met the coolest osaka surfers this morning. Kena-san, Marki-san, Etsu-san, and Moto-san all very energetic and fun surfers. i was so stoked to see them catching so many waves this morning. thanks guys for the fun morning and pho for lunch. keep on surfing!
aad
i always save my favorite tshirts. If You Don’t Go, You Don’t Know by Spice Clothing i had for years. i just took it out and wore it for the first time 2 days ago and got many nice comments. this is how i live my life, i go, and i know. simple! haha.