it still amazes me on how surfing can bring out the inner soul and outer muscles. i think surfing brings out the best in people. and it also builds your muscles at the same time. 3.5 years ago, Inaida-san wasn’t looking like this. now, he has a defined chest, biceps and triceps. not too many people his age have this kind of body. and it’s all from surfing!
super stoked to see my friend Robbie driving around his new toy. it’s HUGE!
yes, another night at my favorite sushi restaurant in the whole world.
i forgot what this is called but the sushi chef told me that it cost $900/kilo. so expensive!!! i felt like i ate money!
and by far, my favorite. fatty tuna. i could eat a hundred pieces of this.
last, here is a quote i had on my computer for years. i look at it all the time to remind me about love and work.
“CHOOSE A JOB YOU LOVE, AND YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO WORK A DAY IN YOUR LIFE.”
Choose a Job you Love!
June 18, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Yesterday was so beautiful!
Today will be too!
Good morning 5:40am.
Waist high with chest high sets on the South Shore.
Rockpiles/Kaisers best with the South/East swell.
Clean conditions.
Off shore trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing 2 rounds again @ 5 hours.
Have a wonderful day!
Go and Know!
i’ve been learning a lot about hard work and dedication. i asked a few people if they could polish and clean Mayuki and either they don’t do a good job, or they don’t even show up. so i figure i’d just do it by myself. i spent 3 hours yesterday morning in the hot sun sweating and working hard. it’s a very hard job and now i can appreciate people working hard a lot more.
this was yesterday morning after i finished the wax job. perfection! so the moral of the story is “if you want something done right, do it yourself.” simple!
this morning i passed by diamond head and i knew it was going to be a very amazing surfing day. surfed 2 rounds, boat ride, and yakiniku dinner. left at 7am, came back at 9pm. happy, but very tired.
i met the coolest osaka surfers this morning. Kena-san, Marki-san, Etsu-san, and Moto-san all very energetic and fun surfers. i was so stoked to see them catching so many waves this morning. thanks guys for the fun morning and pho for lunch. keep on surfing!
i always save my favorite tshirts. If You Don’t Go, You Don’t Know by Spice Clothing i had for years. i just took it out and wore it for the first time 2 days ago and got many nice comments. this is how i live my life, i go, and i know. simple! haha.