September 13, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report

September 14, 2014

Nature. Love it!
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore flat.
South shore still small but coming up. High surf advisory NOW! Ala Moana small at waist/chest high. But coming up tomorrow to solid 4′. No wind and super clean conditions.
Super sunny all day and all week.
Going surfing all day.
See you in the water!

Love Birds

September 13, 2014

waking up early in the morning and jumping into the ocean before sunrise is amazing. it’s just you, friends, and the ocean! i can’t wait till the next dawn patrol.

i don’t care what i’m riding anymore. as long as i’m riding a wave, i’m a happy surfer!

i went to check diamond head this morning and 2 birds came to check out the waves with me. cool love birds.

had a wonderful day 2 with the Iwata-san family. it’s their 7th time here and i’m stoked to take them to places they’ve seen for the first time. this view to me is the best view in the whole world!

we surfed in the morning and everybody surfed much much better than yesterday. tomorrow will be day 3 and i’m sure things will only get better and better. i’m very happy to meet this very wonderful energetic surfer family.

Noriko-san paddling out yesterday following a baby turtle. so cool!

thank you to the Iwata-san family for the treats from japan. itadakimasu!