Thursday January8日 2026年

Boat Trip Day 3: Uku's and Guitar!

opps, forgot about my Banyak journal. i would find myself to bed after a few bintangs, managed to type in my daily journal before falling fast asleep. here is day 3.
day 3. wake up and pulled up to treasure island.
been here before but waves were so different.
nobody out in the morning so jumped in to get wet.
onshore and very junk. but surfed anyway.
then came in for a dive on the outside.
stoked to see some fish!
took a 50′ drop as i seen a school of uku.
waited on the bottom seen them come to check me out.
aimed my gun at one and out from the back i seen a GT coming in.
we have 13 hungry people on the boat so i waited for the biggest one to come in.
bam, got it, and was happy.
then it was on! everybody started shooting fish after fish.
travis, kekoa, al, all with uku’s for a weeks worth of sashimi and poke.
came back to the boat for Tiare’s dream board workshop.
waves in the back going off so couldn’t concentrate.
paddled out for a afternoon session.
super perfect sheet glassy conditions and barreling.
got a double barrel on my first wave.
then a triple barrel after that.
perfect waves and perfect memories.
water running out. can’t take a shower until it rains and we catch water.
used 2/3 of the water supply in the first few days. we need rain badly.
the bintangs tasted really good.
so did the sashimi.
Travis guitar jam session. awesome.
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this was my first dive day. so stoked to go free diving with my friends. moments like this i will remember for the rest of my life. nice fish Matsu! haha.
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Matsu also caught a katsuo or aku on the fishing pole. then this is what it looked like on the way to the dinner table. it was awesome!
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everybody needs a nap. Hello Toda-san. i’m sure you are dreaming of barrels and chocolate cake! haha.

October 18, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report

[youtube]http://youtu.be/grSKsVO-ySo[/youtube]
Super Amazing Video!!! Watch it.
Good morning 5:50am.
North shore 2-4′ and off shore.
Ala Moana waist high and off shore.
Diamond Head head high and side winds.
No wind now but becoming stronger to 20mph trade winds soon.
No rain now but it’s coming.
Going surfing all day.
Have a safe and wonderful day!

Islander Deal and Poverty Line

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today was so beautiful. you can tell there is a storm nearby because the weather can’t make up its mind. i just look up at the sky all day and admire the sun, clouds, rain, and huge rainbows!
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i’m not panicing and going out buying up all the water. i’m getting prepared in other ways. i spent some time tying up Mayuki.
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i can live without water, but i can’t live without Mayuki. now she’s nice and secure.
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seen 5 girls in small bikinis paddling out to a secret spot today. it was just them and nobody else. i thought that was cool!
ever since i was 13 years old, i’ve been always looking for deals. i was never the type to buy something brand new because it just cost too much. and plus i didn’t have the money for it. so i was always looking around for good deals. my first VW Bug i bought from $300 when i walked up to a guys house and asked if he wants to sell his old VW that was rotting on the side of his house. i was 17 years old at that time. i fixed it up, drove it for 4 years, and sold it for $2,000.
so i have a friend from japan who wants to live in hawaii for 3 months. buying a car is way to expensive. insurance alone is way too high. a moped is the way to go. cheap on gas, no need insurance, and free parking anywhere. i’ve been looking for the past week. it takes time and you have to be ready because when a good deal comes along, everybody wants it. yesterday morning at 4:30am i’m searching the internet for a used moped. finally i see one that was just posted. i sent the email saying i’m interested. make the appointment last night to check it out.
here was the ad:
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Asking $800 for Moped. Moped was $1195 new. Purchased 3 months ago. Please call if interested.
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i meet the girl last night, test ride the moped, give her the cash, and the deal is done. the girl bought this moped 3 months ago and i saw the receipt for $1,200. it is practically brand new. i bought it for $800 and she gave me a brand new $100 helmet. why is this a deal? ok, my friend can ride this for the 3 months he’s here. then when he leaves, he can still sell it for $800. see the deal? now i’m going to get some surf racks, install it, and it’s good to go. and maybe i’ll even take it for a surf tomorrow. haha.
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over 48 million americans live in poverty. what is considered poverty? there is an official poverty line of $23,283 for a family of four. i’ve seen the homeless problem in hawaii grow from a handful back in the 1980’s, to thousands today. will the problem go away? with the median house price in hawaii at $760,000, i don’t think so. prices are just going up and wages aren’t. the homeless problem is a huge problem now and i hope the government has some answers. it’s so sad seeing little kids living in the streets.