welcome to Hurricane Ana day! 2 days ago Sugiyama-san called me to ask if we are still going to surf because of the hurricane. i told him, “hawaii is an island so somewhere is offshore. i’m surfing anyway so let’s go!” so today, we go! a beautiful newlywed couples first time to hawaii.

Yuka-san is very energetic so i knew she would stand up on her first wave.

yes, Yuka-san’s first wave! welcome to the wonderful world of surfing!

Sugiyama-san asked me to teach him how to bottom turn. i taught him on the beach, then taught him from the side, and taught him after every wave. like strict military style training. haha. perfect take off!

more pressure on the back foot than the front. look at the rainbow tower and go!

put it on your rail and head towards diamond head. good job Sugiyama-san! sorry about my finger in the photo. haha.

all of a sudden, i could feel the winds changing, the current getting stronger, and the rain coming. i love watching nature change its mood so quickly. it was time for lunch.

i love meeting people, especially japanese people that come to hawaii for the first time.

local food? poke bowl! after lunch, we go to sightsee on the north shore. while they are shopping in haleiwa, i check out the waves and find out that today is the ultimate best conditions for Sugiyama-san to make his north shore debut. we head to the beach, get ready, and jump in.

i could imagine how nervous it is to make your debut on the north shore of oahu. pretty scary to be exact, especially when there is a hurricane heading straight towards us.

had a bunch of kids enjoying the perfect waves!

i caught my very first wave of my life right here at haleiwa when i was 7 years old. i will never ever forget that moment.

Sugiyama-san charging. after a while, the kids moved down to the side and we had the lineup to ourselves.

this is a perfect bottom turn Sugiyama-san!

if you are a surfer, you know the feeling of riding good waves. and you can’t help but smile!

of course, i have to catch my fair share of waves too. after this session, we speed back to bowls for Yuka-san’s turn to surf.

the hurricane was in full swing! windy, strong current, rainy, stormy, and big waves. i love the challenge!

Yuka-san riding Hurricane Ana’s waves! and of course, i’m right behind her making sure she doesn’t get swept by the current to the channel. it was pretty dangerous out there.

we are still soaking wet, cold, but head to waiola shave ice for a treat. 3 wonderful surf sessions!

after i drop off Mr. and Mrs. Sugiyama-san, i drive through waikiki thinking how bummed japanese tourist are because of the hurricane. for tourists, it sucks. but for surfers, it’s awesome. a day that the 3 of us will remember forever.
We Surfed Hurricane Ana!

Haleiwa is shoulder high, light off shore wind, and perfect!
Score!!!

opps, forgot about my Banyak journal. i would find myself to bed after a few bintangs, managed to type in my daily journal before falling fast asleep. here is day 3.
day 3. wake up and pulled up to treasure island.
been here before but waves were so different.
nobody out in the morning so jumped in to get wet.
onshore and very junk. but surfed anyway.
then came in for a dive on the outside.
stoked to see some fish!
took a 50′ drop as i seen a school of uku.
waited on the bottom seen them come to check me out.
aimed my gun at one and out from the back i seen a GT coming in.
we have 13 hungry people on the boat so i waited for the biggest one to come in.
bam, got it, and was happy.
then it was on! everybody started shooting fish after fish.
travis, kekoa, al, all with uku’s for a weeks worth of sashimi and poke.
came back to the boat for Tiare’s dream board workshop.
waves in the back going off so couldn’t concentrate.
paddled out for a afternoon session.
super perfect sheet glassy conditions and barreling.
got a double barrel on my first wave.
then a triple barrel after that.
perfect waves and perfect memories.
water running out. can’t take a shower until it rains and we catch water.
used 2/3 of the water supply in the first few days. we need rain badly.
the bintangs tasted really good.
so did the sashimi.
Travis guitar jam session. awesome.

this was my first dive day. so stoked to go free diving with my friends. moments like this i will remember for the rest of my life. nice fish Matsu! haha.

Matsu also caught a katsuo or aku on the fishing pole. then this is what it looked like on the way to the dinner table. it was awesome!

everybody needs a nap. Hello Toda-san. i’m sure you are dreaming of barrels and chocolate cake! haha.