been having some work done on my house for the past 2 months. my grandpa built my house 60 years ago so some things have to be changed. some things leading to other things. just seems never ending. and now days, it’s so expensive for materials and labor. back in the days, i would do everything by myself. but now i’m just too busy so i have people working on things. i had to get a water line installed from my pipe to my refrigerator and the plumber wanted to charge me $250. what??? no way! so i went to the hardware store, bought the parts for $20, and did it myself. it took 30 minutes and i saved a lot of precious money!

i’d have to say that flying to molokai in a helicopter was one of the highlights of my life. a great memory with great friends. a trip i will never forget.

just a total different view of hawaii. but now that Toda-san has his drone, i don’t think i’ll be needing a helicopter ride anymore. haha.

a waterfall from the heavens to the oceans. i felt like jumping off the mountain!

2 years ago, i use to eat and drink anything and everything. all kinds of unhealthy food, sodas, beers, and anything i wanted to. i kind of freaked out when i looked at this photo. but now, i’m eating a lot more healthier and i feel more energetic, more healthy, and more happy. and i lost 10lbs. or 4 kilos ever since then. i think i’m at a good weight now and i’ll be fine as long as i don’t eat the late night ramen before bedtime. haha.

last winter when Kimura-san came to hawaii, we went shopping. i bought these cool surf trunks and he wanted it too. at that time, i told him “NO!” he didn’t buy it and that was that. then on my birthday night on the boat in indonesia, he came out of his room with the same trunks. and so did Matsu. i thought something was weird??? after i told him not to buy it, he went back by himself and bought the trunks. haha. i thought that was pretty funny!

OMG! Rain, Rain, Rain! Super Rain! Dirty water!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4′ and stormy.
South shore 2-4′ and stormy.
Stormy Sunday and junk waves.
East windy winds at 20mph.
Heavy rain.
Dark sky, no sun.
Watch a movie today.
Have a wonderful relaxing day!
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welcome to Hurricane Ana day! 2 days ago Sugiyama-san called me to ask if we are still going to surf because of the hurricane. i told him, “hawaii is an island so somewhere is offshore. i’m surfing anyway so let’s go!” so today, we go! a beautiful newlywed couples first time to hawaii.

Yuka-san is very energetic so i knew she would stand up on her first wave.

yes, Yuka-san’s first wave! welcome to the wonderful world of surfing!

Sugiyama-san asked me to teach him how to bottom turn. i taught him on the beach, then taught him from the side, and taught him after every wave. like strict military style training. haha. perfect take off!

more pressure on the back foot than the front. look at the rainbow tower and go!

put it on your rail and head towards diamond head. good job Sugiyama-san! sorry about my finger in the photo. haha.

all of a sudden, i could feel the winds changing, the current getting stronger, and the rain coming. i love watching nature change its mood so quickly. it was time for lunch.

i love meeting people, especially japanese people that come to hawaii for the first time.

local food? poke bowl! after lunch, we go to sightsee on the north shore. while they are shopping in haleiwa, i check out the waves and find out that today is the ultimate best conditions for Sugiyama-san to make his north shore debut. we head to the beach, get ready, and jump in.

i could imagine how nervous it is to make your debut on the north shore of oahu. pretty scary to be exact, especially when there is a hurricane heading straight towards us.

had a bunch of kids enjoying the perfect waves!

i caught my very first wave of my life right here at haleiwa when i was 7 years old. i will never ever forget that moment.

Sugiyama-san charging. after a while, the kids moved down to the side and we had the lineup to ourselves.

this is a perfect bottom turn Sugiyama-san!

if you are a surfer, you know the feeling of riding good waves. and you can’t help but smile!

of course, i have to catch my fair share of waves too. after this session, we speed back to bowls for Yuka-san’s turn to surf.

the hurricane was in full swing! windy, strong current, rainy, stormy, and big waves. i love the challenge!

Yuka-san riding Hurricane Ana’s waves! and of course, i’m right behind her making sure she doesn’t get swept by the current to the channel. it was pretty dangerous out there.

we are still soaking wet, cold, but head to waiola shave ice for a treat. 3 wonderful surf sessions!

after i drop off Mr. and Mrs. Sugiyama-san, i drive through waikiki thinking how bummed japanese tourist are because of the hurricane. for tourists, it sucks. but for surfers, it’s awesome. a day that the 3 of us will remember forever.
We Surfed Hurricane Ana!