Shoulder high and GOOD!
Go-Naminori!

my best friend Holli was supposed to visit me in japan back in 1992. things didn’t work out then and after 22 years, she finally got the chance to visit japan! i’m so stoked for her but bummed out i couldn’t spend some time there with her. full okinawan and full on active in the okinawan community in hawaii. i’m sure she’s enjoying herself in her root country and i’m pretty sure she feels at home.

here are some photos she just sent me. one minute bar? one minute man?

and yes, i’ve drunk over a thousand in my days in okinawa. and i still want more. orion beer is awesome!

and the draft beers. omg! it reminds me of one time Holli and I had too much orions at a bar in hawaii. a crazy ending to a crazy night i will never forget. but nobody got hurt so it’s all good.

experiencing the true okinawan culture. cool!

i’m so stoked for Holli. next time i hope to make it to okinawa together with her so i can share my precious friends. and i know she will love them all.

surfed with Nanami-san and her 2 kids this morning. Liam and Gavin surfing in hawaii with mom was cool. a super cool family from colorado that love the ocean. we have many more sessions ahead and i’m looking forward to surfing and improving out skills.

very active, very smart, and very good. Nanami-san knows how to surf and have a good time. thank you and see you guys again on wednesday!

Nice driving.
Good morning 5:50am.
RAIN!!! OMG, Rain all night!
Still raining and cloudy. What happened?
Bowls bigger than yesterday. Chest high sets and clean waves, but dirty water. Diamond Head windy head high.
Strong trade winds at 25mph, heavy rain at my house now.
Getting sunny later.
Surfing all day.
No sunburn today!
Have a wonderful day!