Surf.
Sightsee.
Surf.
Dive.
Surf.
Sunset.
Another long satisfying day in the ocean!
I’m so tired and sunburnt.
Goodnight.

Fried Nabeta!
The best!!!

had fun with Matsushima-san and Miyuki-san the day before yesterday. honeymooner surfers in hawaii. that’s so cool!

Matsushima-san on a super good wave!

Miyuki-san riding towards the rainbow!

then i went that afternoon to pick up Yumi-chan. hey Yumi-chan, i’m really sorry for making you cry. don’t be scared. for a girl that couldn’t swim 2 years ago, you are doing great. the waves you dove under were actually bigger than you thought. i just didn’t want to say it because i know you would have panicked more.

and the reason i kept you out in the big waves is to redeem yourself. never go in defeated! get back up, try again, and ride into the wild! good girl!