omg, did you feel the heavy rain today? i surfed 2 rounds in the heavy rain. i love it because it’s uncrowded, cool, and no sunburn. ran off to my secret spot and surfed head high waves with only 3 other surfers out on this stormy saturday. as for tomorrow, more rain, more heavy, and more wet. south swell coming up tomorrow, trade winds back on monday, and lots of work coming up.
was super happy to see my friend Kimo Gasper paddling out the other day. Kimo and I use to surf amateur contests together back in the 1980’s. we were also both on the hawaiian world team that competed in japan in 1990. a lot of good memories with this cool guy.
was paddling out to bowls on one of the bigger mornings and was super stoked to see my nephew Isaiah Moniz out there before me. and was more stoked to see him getting barreled!!!
wanted to say hello and thank you to Saiki-san and Torimoto-san! peace!
and wanted to say hello and thank you to Takagaki-san and Kiyomi-san! had a great time surfing with you!
and wanted to say hello and thank you to Yamamoto-san! shaka brah! keep on surfing and hope to see you all again!
waking up early tomorrow morning and surfing all day again! good night and see you in the water!
Hello and Thank you's
Yukata Marathon Surfer
like every morning, i drove by diamond head yesterday to check the waves. down from the day before, little wind already on the wave, and super crowded. new swell sunday peaking on monday as finally the trade winds will be back. expect epic surf all day long starting from monday.
there’s always a first time for everything right? i was stoked when i picked up Keyaki-san and seen her in her yukata. i love japanese culture!
and yes, a beautiful photo before we start surfing! i thought women wearing a yukata were shy, quiet, and graceful. that was my image until Keyaki-san took it off and started surfing! first time touching a surfboard and i couldn’t believe she stood up on her first wave and every wave after that!!! come to find out, Keyaki-san runs the 100km (62mi.) marathons! runs in the mountains, 350 scuba dives around the world, and is in top shape! so much energy and so much fun. we even went snorkeling in the afternoon and had a great time!
i still can’t believe how great her balance was, and how energetic she was all day long.
yes, the most beautiful smiles come out after riding a great wave.
perfect stance, perfect bending the knees, and perfect looking forward. the keys to great surfing.
a big teddy’s cheese burger for lunch. thank you Keyaki-san for a wonderful day!