ok, how hot was it today? omg, i am totally sunburnt! went surfing early this morning, was in the water by 6am and it was already crowded. the waves were shoulder high and perfect! came in, did some things that had to be done, then went back out for a surf again in the afternoon. wow! the new swell is here! solid head high sets at bowls and not too crowded. scored 2 excellent sessions and i’m finally getting my balance back. not surfing for 2 weeks last month and riding longboards kind of threw my surfing off. a couple more sessions and i should get it all back. i feel like a newborn surfer!

the first day of the big swell i didn’t want to hassle with everybody so i went to check out a spot that breaks only about 2x a year. this day was the first time so probably only one more day this year. it has to have the right direction swell, right tide, right wind, and right everything. on a normal day, this spot doesn’t even exist. nobody knows about it, and nobody surfs it. how do i know about it? i dove out there many of times and wondered why such a shallow reef in the middle of the ocean doesn’t break. come to find out, the swell has to be big! so i paddle out, sit right on top of the reef, wait, wait, wait, and when it comes, i have the waves all to myself. this is the part of surfing i love!

it looks like sunset beach or something! look how big and perfect the back wave is. i rode a 5’10’ Matchi Shape that was working great! thank you to Inaida-san and Yuki-san for the photos! see you again very soon.

i had a few drinks, came back, seen the full moon, grabbed the camera with the heavy 20lbs. 400mm lens, had to hold it still, took a couple of photos, and this is one of them. freaking awesome nature!!! look at the craters in the moon! i wonder if you can surf there? haha.

OMG, look what I found today!
Fresh huge Opihis!
Evening with ponzu and beer.
Cheers!

i never download music, but when i seen this album, i had to get it. Neil Diamond Love Songs! omg! i can’t wait to take another trip and listen to it on my ipod. and speaking of trips, i saw some airplanes take off when i was surfing yesterday and thought to myself “gosh, i want to travel again.” then after i caught a wave, i rethought “i take that back. i want to enjoy my life in hawaii for a little while more. i ain’t going anywhere.”

i pulled up to bowls and seen something weird??? 4 pigeon statues? did somebody put these there? then as i got closer, they moved their heads. they stayed in the same place for the whole time i was there, but the heads were moving.

then i went closer and found out they were real!!! omg, such good synchronicity. how cool is this?

and if you haven’t heard the news around the world yet, a pro surfer is charged with attempted murder. yes, this 30 year girl tried to kill a 73 year old lady with her car. all because of road rage. it’s crazy how this news is making headlines around the world. it kind of gives pro surfers from hawaii a bad image. kind of bummed at this. there are rapes, murders, drugs, killings, stabbings, and all kinds of crime in hawaii that never makes the headlines around the world. but this did and you know why? because she’s a surfer. but in america, everybody is innocent until proven guilty in the court of law. at $1 million bail set, this might be serious.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnJli5khhpI[/youtube]