May 21, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


OMG, ebay got hacked!!!!
Reset your password ASAP!
Good morning 5am.
South shore still fun.
Bowls chest high sets and super clean.
Diamond Head little overhead and super clean.
No wind so perfect conditions in the morning.
Weird wind coming around 10am again.
Sunny hot morning, humid muggy cloudy rainy afternoon.
Winter weather continues.
I’m going dawn patrol.
Have a wonderful day!

Super Woman!

photo 1
i was driving to the beach early this morning and seen something i see all the time. a super drunk man sleeping on the side of the street near the ala wai canal. it kind of reminded me of my college days. haha. i’m just glad i finally grew up.
photo 4
wow, i had an amazing day with this super woman! Nishio-san came to hawaii for the honolulu triathlon. she completed it 2 days ago. today we surfed all day long, 5.5 hours to be exact. it’s her first time surfing and she stood up from the very first wave to the last. total of 50 plus waves ridden today, paddled out by herself, turned, and even caught waves by herself. i couldn’t believe how much energy she had!!! then come to find out, Nishio-san couldn’t even swim 2 years ago. so she learned in a pool, and swam the triathlon part in the ocean. it was her first time ever swimming in the ocean!! omg!!! but she put her fears aside and completed the race. i was amazed!!! then i found out that she has 2 kids age 20 and 15. omg! super energetic mom!!! i ask her what’s next? she said “skydiving!” today was a very inspiring day for me! i’m going to stop taking my afternoon naps. haha.
photo 4
between surfs, we went to visit nature. and nature as always was very peaceful and beautiful. the smell, the breeze, and the birds singing. totally different than the ocean.
photo 2
i just had to get a panorama shot of this amazing power spot.
photo 5
then like every afternoon for the past 3 days, it rained. no wind today, cloudy sky, hazy vog, and the water got colder all of a sudden. it feels like winter and it’s going to be like this for the next week or so.
super burnt from today. i’m so surprised how long we surfed today. i had a great time and after watching the progress and smiles, i know i have the best job in the world. good night and see you in the water tomorrow morning at 5:30am because i’m surfing all day! the south swell continues for the next week! yeah!!!

My Life: Fish vs. Dive

if you know me, i’m not a very patient guy. yes, i’ve learned how to be a lot more patient recently, but i’m still not there. for fishing, you have to have patience. you put the lure in the water and wait for the fish to bite. sometimes you come home with fish, most times you don’t. it’s to totally opposite from spear fishing. almost every time i come home for dinner so i’m not use to coming home empty handed.
photo 4
i tried my luck for the past 2 days and after hours and hours of driving around wasting gas, not even one bite! omg! over $2,000 on fishing equipment, hundreds on gas, and not even one piece of sashimi to bring home.
photo p4
the only good thing is the cool views. the conditions have been so perfect to go island hopping. the past 2 days made me realize what’s important in life, and what’s not important in life. i will get into that later.
photo 3
yes, my speargun is mandatory on any boat trip. after hours of being so patient, i gave up on fishing. i reeled up the lines, grabbed my gun, and jumped into the water.
photo 2
i did 5 drops, and caught 4 fish. so fast, so easy, and so delicious. i think i’m going to sell my fishing poles. haha. this made me realize that i’m not a fisherman, i’m a hunter. to drop down 50′ and spear a fish on one breath is not only exciting, it’s healthy, peaceful, and rewarding. i don’t have to eat what bites my fishing line, i eat what i choose to spear.
photo p5
then coming back to reality was weird for me. i wish i could be a male mermaid and live beneath the sea. haha.