The South swell is here!
Solid overhead!
I surfed 3 rounds.
So sunburned, so tired, and so hungry!
BBQ time!

as most people know, predicting the south shore swells in hawaii is the hardest. the swells generated down by australia has to make its way all the way up to hawaii and by the time it arrives, it’s almost gone. nobody has ever gotten it right, and most of the south swells are disappointing. they were saying last week that the swell was supposed to arrive on wednesday. then thursday, then friday, then now it’s saturday. i never get my hopes up high because this is just how life is on the south shore. usually small, but when a swell does arrive, it’s freaking awesome! this was last nights forecast for today. looked promising and i bet a lot of surfers called in sick today. sorry guys, try again tomorrow. haha.
light winds all week so epic conditions once the swell arrives. see you in the water!

5:30am.
The waiting game.
Waist high with chest high sets every hour.
Everybody waiting for South swell.
Coming up later today we hope.
Contest today at Bowls.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Diamond Head biggest and best.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Warm becoming hot.
Maybe rain this afternoon.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!