oops, i forgot to post this back on april, 9, 2014. sorry.

we all got back to hawaii yesterday and went surfing. it was cloudy, windy, and usually cold. but for me, it was warm, clean, and felt so good. we had a little spot to ourselves and got to surf in peace. i was so happy to be back home. and i’m sure everybody that comes to hawaii must feel the same way too. good knee paddling Inaida-san.

it’s april and the water is getting warmer, and so is the air. even on the cloudy days, it feels good. maybe because i just got back from freezing japan? probably so.

Yuki-san’s first wave in a while. always good balance and good smile!

Inaida-san has good boards, good wetsuits, good shorts, and good life. just like me. haha.

Nomura-san is one the most fittest japanese man i’ve ever met. super strong, super talented, and super big chest!

and good balance too. the rare goofy footer in the group.
well, my hawaiian lifestyle continues. surf, eat, sleep, work, new friends and old friends. the more i stay here, the more i love here. i wish i didn’t have to leave but in order to balance my life, i have too. and since life is so short, i’m planning to jump on an airplane in a couple of weeks and going to a place i’ve always dreamed of. this year i promised myself to enjoy life more and jump at any opportunity. that’s exactly what i’m doing! good night!

Oceans Beauty.
Good morning 6:40am.
Bowls waist with sometimes chest high sets. Clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and crowded!
Maybe bigger this afternoon.
Next South swell on Thursday.
Light trade winds at 5-10mph.
Cloudy and overcast becoming sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i went into my garage and pulled out my paddle board this morning. the last time i used it was when i paddled from makapuu to waikiki. the next time i use it will be to paddle from molokai to oahu. am i ready? probably not. will i go? probably.

i wash it off, throw it in the truck, strap it on Mayuki, and just wonder when that day will come. this is something i have to do before i die. something i’ve dreamt about over and over, something i just need to do to complete my life.

i had a funeral to attend this morning. i knew it was going to be sad so i wanted to open up my soul. and the only way is to go surfing. so before the sadness, i had to have happiness. i caught some perfect waves today at bowls!

i knew Chris McDonald ever since i got my first car. he was a owner/partner at Security Alarm Shop and helped me throughout the years. we became friends and every time i see Chris, we would talk about surfing or japan, nothing else. such a kind man, such a respected man, and such a great role mode. i will surely miss his smile, and i’m sure his wife and 2 kids he left behind will too. as i sat at his funeral, i could only think of the good things this wonderful man did for people. he will surely be missed.

after a sad funeral, i had to get happy by eating my favorite ginger chicken plate from Duck Kee. then i went back out into the ocean to open back up my heart and soul.
death is sad, but if you can just hold on to those precious moments you spent with that person, then it’s all good. today really made me think about my life. there are just too many things i have to do before i die. and now i will strive forward to make my life complete. and if in the meantime i don’t make it, you will all know that i tried my hardest.