had a great time surfing with Shimizu-san. a super cool surfer from Yamaguchi prefecture. always smiling and surfing so good!

look how perfect the waves were! just glassy, sunny, warm, and barreling! good surfing Shimizu-san!

a lot of people asked me about this photo. not too often you will see a big Munu like this these days. and not too often you will see a kid dive down 40′, look into a black hole, and spear a prized fish like this right between the eyes. Seth Moniz is becoming a better and better waterman each time he free dives. so stoked for him! and i asked him if anybody teases him about his mask? he said some people look at him funny when he brings it out. i get teased a lot with mine too because it’s the same old school amasan mask from japan. the cheapest and best mask in the market! but hey, it’s not the mask that catches you fish right? laugh all you want. haha.

Katsura-san amazes me. a very dedicated and very hard working woman. i don’t know too many people that work as hard as she does. i really respect that a lot. and her magic hands makes me feel 10 years younger each and every time. it hurts, but it hurts so good!

thank you Katsura-san for my favorite arare and for the great massages. and you were surfing so good this time too!

have you ever tried this? omg, so good with a cold beer.
last night i felt weird. my body was acting weird. too much sun? too much work? too much play? i could feel my body shutting down on me. my food wouldn’t digest right, my mind was stressed, and my body was cold. i came home early and went straight to bed at 8:45pm. i curled up into a ball and said to myself “please get me through tonight and make me feel good tomorrow morning.” i woke up at 5:30am and felt fresh again. i think i know what it was, it was my body telling me to slow down. the problem is i don’t know how to slow down. haha. but yeah, i think i’m just too active and need to rest my body a little more. so that’s what i will do from now on. slow life.

This world is getting crazy!
Good morning 5:40am.
South shore still strong at 3′. Smaller than yesterday but still super fun. Bowls good again with perfect conditions. 27 surfers out already. Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm day.
Next South swell on Monday.
Our perfect summer continues.
I’m going surfing all day again.
Have a wonderful day!

i wake up early, head out to the ocean on Mayuki with Brent and Kekoa for a fast dive. as i pass bowls, it looked 2-3′, crowded, and inconsistent. we go dive, we come back 2 hours later and the waves started to pump! it looked like a different day! i drop off Brent and Kekoa at the harbor, ride Mayuki back out, throw the anchor, and surf some epic 4′ bowls!!! i even got a nice barrel on a left. felt so good! pull anchor, come back in by 10:30am and i felt totally satisfied for a full amazing day. after that, i just went shopping and relaxed.

then i see a school of Halalu or “baby aji” at the harbor. if this wasn’t a private club, there would be hundreds of hawaiian fishermen catching fish after fish. i was all alone sitting down enjoying nature. i had a glass of water, some popcorn, and watched big trevally’s attack the school of halalu. if the water wasn’t so dirty, i would have jumped in with my go pro and you would have seen some amazing action. i wanted to grab my fishing pole but decided not to interfere with nature. i just sat and enjoyed it.

so cool yeah!

thousands of fish swimming in a circle until the trevally comes up and eats a few.

wanted to thank Banba-san for the awesome japanese farmers gift. great with my rice, egg, and natto.

fins are everything. i’ve been surfing for over 30 years and tried every fin you can imagine. fins can make a board work, or make a board not work. i see all the time people using the wrong fins on their boards. i’ve even seen people sell their boards because they said it didn’t work. with the wrong fin setup, your board won’t work. it’s like putting cheap gas in your car. no matter how good your car is, it won’t run as good if you put good gas in. i use Scarfini HX1 fins on every single board i own. to me, they work the best. just enough stiffness, just enough flex, and just enough weight to make a normal board turn like magic. if you haven’t tried them before, i really feel sorry for you. and i’m not joking.