for those of you who don’t know, i’m allergic to raw shrimp heads. if i eat it, i get sick. my stomach turns angry and hurts more than a 10′ pipeline wave landing on my head. but at the same time, i love to eat shrimp heads so i eat it anyway. just a few hours before i boarded my flight back to hawaii, i ate a shrimp head. as soon as i got on the airplane, i felt it. omg, i was in pain! feeling dizzy, sore stomach, head ache, and felt like throwing up. so i payed the price!!! but the good thing is: my body flushed out every single thing that could possible come out. and i lost the 10lbs i gained with Toda-san. will i eat another raw shrimp head again? probably. but never again before i board an airplane.

have my camera with me a lot so when friends are passing by, i just take a snap. here is rockpiles local Phillip with the big bottom turn on a 11’0. big man, big board.

Yuko-chan’s been surfing really good recently. lot’s of drive and lot’s of smiles!

happy to see Eri-chan enjoying her hawaiian lifestyle! live hawaii.

been teaching this teenager how to surf and shoot at the same time. then someday maybe she can give people photos and make them happy. that would be cool!

POI to hawaiians is like how rice is to japanese. i love both!

i finally found the solution for perfect ball ice! can’t wait to sip on some nice whisky!

when the waves get big, sometimes you come up and breath foam. going up to your nose is normal in hawaii. but in puerto escondido, i remember the foam going way over my head wave after wave. i thought i was going to die! thank goodness i didn’t panic. i will never forget that day.

SOS means “HELP!”
Good morning 6:30am.
South shore still good!
Bowls 3-4′ and perfect. 30 guys out!!!
Diamond Head overhead and good. Better conditions later in the afternoon. Winds light trades at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm with cool trade winds.
Another super surfing day!
Have a wonderful day!

been having some pretty happy days since i got back to hawaii. yes, busy, but very happy busy. anything to do with meeting new people and showing the beauty of hawaii is a happy day for me.

a couple of days ago, i took Mr. and Mrs. Kawanashi-san surfing. just a very kind and cool surf couple from Mie, Japan.

i couldn’t believe how good they surfed! omg! check out Yukie-san’s bottom turn into diamond head.

bam! nice off the top!!!

check this one out too! nice ripping Yukie-san! sorry about my leg in the photo. haha.

Masato-san’s been surfing for 25 years and it shows. once he gets up, he knows how to put his board on the rail.

bottom turn and setting up for the off the lip.

and here it is, the off the lip! good surfing Masato-san!

when the water is clean, i do my best to get something in the world i love.

perfect duck diving from a perfect couple!

then today i took these 2 young hip hop college girls surfing for their first time. Urara-chan and Sanae-chan did awesome!!! we surfed so long and go so hungry so we ate a poke bowl, waiola shave ice, and leonard’s masasadas all within an hour. so it was time to burn off the calories in the afternoon so where’s the best place to do that? in the ocean!

another picture perfect day!

we had the whole ocean to snorkel to ourselves. went looking for sharks and turtles. saw um both!

only the ocean can bring out the best smiles in everyone. it was Sanae-chan’s first time snorkeling and she didn’t even know she could swim. it was pretty funny. good job girls!

Waiola Shave Ice on a hot hawaiian summer day. i had a great full day with you girls. keep on surfing, keep on dancing, keep on english, and keep on chasing your dreams! Aloha.