so happy to see Kitamura-san working at the new shop in chigasaki! go check out Pacific Blue Ocean! i hope to make it there this summer!
and stoked to see Bol making magazines and huge barrels. i miss this kid.
sat in the truck this morning and finished the book “Into the Wild.” omg, this is another life changing book for me. i totally respect what Christopher McCandless chose to do with his life. makes me want to live off the land and be alone in the wild for a while. yes, he died at a young age, but he fulfilled his life and lived by the way he wanted to. i totally respect that.
after being alone for over a 100 days in the alaska wilderness, he left this phrase in his diary right before he died. “Happiness is only real, when shared.” i truly believe in that and it took him years on the lonely road to figure it out. such a bummer he died.
this is the bus he found, lived, and died in. now i’m going to watch the movie “Into the Wild” starring Sean Penn. i can’t wait!
after reading the book, i have some advise for people that are soul searching. live your life to the fullest! take chances, don’t hesitate, go for it, and never look back. we only have one life to live and you just never know when it will end. so get out and enjoy it!
Take me "Into the Wild"
April 19, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Scary!
Good morning 5:50am.
Small South swell continues.
Bowls and Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head a little bigger but side winds.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Going to be a sunny day.
Going to go diving.
Going to have fun.
Have a wonderful day!
Backdoor Bowls and New Rainbow
i had a great surf session this morning with Isojima-san. a super nice guy that loves surfing just as much as i do.
i wanted to do something different today so i took him to bowls through the backdoor. parked at magic island, walked through the super green park, and paddled across the channel. it’s just a whole new way to look at bowls.
Isojima-san surfed really good today. we had the inside bowl to ourselves all morning long. the waves were super perfect, long, and offshore. i was stoked to see him catching so many waves.
and yes, the new Hilton Hawaiian Village Rainbow Tower is almost done with renovations. it’s been months since they covered the famous rainbow and i’m glad to see part of it coming back brighter than ever! can’t wait to see the whole thing.
and i’m pretty sad to see what’s happening to our beautiful island. crane after crane and building after building. this once amazing view is going to get ugly in my eyes. it’s ruining our island.
and was stoked to see Anti ripping out today. super graceful, super local, super hawaiian, and super cool. a man we must all respect.
afternoon session photos coming soon. tomorrow is another training day in the ocean and i’m looking forward to fine tuning my gear for the last few times. then i’m packing and leaving! good night!
