Wait for waves: Good
Wait for seat: Bad
4.5 hours waiting at Honolulu Airport. I’m so hungry!
Never give up!
I will wait forever!

Yumi-chan is a very popular yoga teacher in osaka. we’ve surfed so many times together and she keeps on getting better and better. yoga and surfing goes hand in hand. yoga is good for surfing, and surfing is good for yoga.

balance is very important so being a yoga teacher must help a lot. this girl never falls!

i’ve been practicing my head stands while riding a wave. it’s kind of hard because everything is moving so fast. so the key is to get a good wave, form a solid foundation, breathe, and go for it! i’m stoked i can do this now.

Yumi-chan feeling super comfortable in the ocean. the surf sessions and free diving sessions paying off.

i’m at a good place in life right now. i’m learning how to be patient, how to understand, how to give in, and how to forgive. my mind is clear, my body feelS energetic, and my soul is all about surfing. NAMASTE!

Yesterday in Heaven. I didn’t want to leave!!!
Good morning 6am.
Happy Birthday Holli Higa!
North shore almost flat.
South shore almost flat.
Winds light trades at 10mph.
Little cloudy morning becoming sunny.
Going crazy.
Have a wonderful day!