Go-Naminori!

surfing is booming in japan. when i was there in april, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at ikumi beach in shikoku. cold water, full wetsuits, but full of fun!

and i totally understand when japanese surfers come to hawaii and are so happy to surf with only a few surfers out. it’s actually unbelievable for them.

but hawaii is hawaii and japan is japan. i actually miss surfing in japan. the surf culture is just so amazing.

when i need food, i just go dive.

and when i dive, i get food.

another steamed tako that’s going to go good with my beer! kanpai!

Are you serious???
Good morning 6am.
Small waves today.
Waist high at Ala Moana.
Clean conditions with light trade winds at 15mph.
Little cloudy becoming super sunny.
Next solid South swell next Wednesday.
Going surfing, then afternoon shoot.
Have a wonderful day!