gosh, the waves have been so good! everybody so happy and so many happy faces in the water. surfing is such a great sport. keeps you healthy, happy, and at peace. the older i’m getting, the more i love surfing. something i will never get tired of.
longboards, shortboards, SUP, bodyboards, or what ever. riding a wave any way you want is a natural high.
and yeah, waiting for a wave isn’t that bad too. just looking around and enjoying the perfect scenery.
every angle looking great.
and paddling in with a big smile is the best feeling. when you ride good waves, you know. and when you don’t, there will always be tomorrow.
here are five simple rules of happiness:
1. Free your heart from hatred.
this is something that took me almost 40 years to do. believe it or not, i use to hate everything. now, i love everything and my life is much better.
2. Free your mind from worries.
nobody was as much as a worry freak than me. i use to worry about what people said about me, i use to worry about the weather, i use to worry about dying. now, i have no worries because everything happens for a reason. let it be, let it be!
3. Live simply.
yes, live simply and you will have a stress free life. no need glamor, no need things you don’t need. just be happy with what you have.
4. Give more.
giving is a gift and if you haven’t done it before, try it and you will feel great.
5. Expect less.
give without expecting anything back. lower your expectations in people and it will keep you from disappointment.
if you can follow these 5 rules, you will live a happier life!
Rules for Happiness
July 16, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgLTHN8TTz4
RIP: Sonny Miller: 1960-2014
Good morning 5:30am.
Still super strong South swell.
Solid 3-4′ sets at Ala Moana and Diamond Head.
Perfect conditions. Barrels at Bowls and Big Rights.
Off shore trade winds at 15-20mph.
Another warm and sunny day.
I’m going surfing 2-3 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!
Surfer X Shaper Relationship
i surfed big rights yesterday evening with shaper Glenn Minami. we talked about surfboards and today i went by his shaping room to talk more about surfboards.
i showed him the magic board he shaped for me and we were looking at every single curve of foam. i’ve rode over a thousand surfboards and every single one worked different. just a 1/32 of an inch or 0.07 cm can make a board work much differently. it’s like a science and all we do is try to make the next one even better. if you want a magic board, you have to know what you’re looking for and have to work closely with your shaper. it’s very important! Glenn Minami has been shaping for top professional surfers in the world for the past 40 years. i’m so happy to have such an experienced hawaiian shaper handcrafting my boards. magic hands equals magic boards!
ate a really good beef broccoli with rice plate today before my 3.5 hour barrel surf session. i went out to big rights looking only for the barrel and got barreled 8 times! a very happy surf session for me!
then after so sunburnt and tired, the anchor got stuck 40 feet deep. OMG! i had to control the boat, dive down to untangle the anchor off the reef, come back up, and pull it up all within a minute. i was even more tired after that.
i drove by bowls and it was still pumping! wave after wave and barrel after barrel. pretty crowded too so i made a good choice going to big rights because it was super uncrowded again today.
not sure who this was but nice grab rail barrel.
still going!
but never made it out.
so the waves came down a little from yesterday but it was still very consistent. tomorrow will drop even more but expect some freak 4′ sets every once in a while. had another long day and ready for bed. good night and surf your dream!
