Friday December12日 2025年

Short board vs. Long board

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i had a fun time with these three young guys. just watching them enjoy surfing in hawaii for the first time was funny.
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Ryo-kun trying out short boarding for the first time. i watched and watched as he had a hard time paddling a tiny board in small surf so i finally offered him my longboard. he became much happier after that as he caught so many more waves.
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i kept on telling the boys to look forward but every time i rode along the side of them, they looked at me and fell. it was funny. but after a few wipeouts, they looked forward and rode perfectly!
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perfect surfing Hayato-kun! keep on looking forward. haha.
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i wish i took more trips with my friends when i was younger. it’s just a time in your life when there are no stress, lots of energy, and no worries at all. i’m sure the memories from this trip for these boys will last a lifetime.
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i’ve been watching these 3 omilu’s swimming out at rockpiles and bowls for the past 4 years. i wanted to go back and spear them but actually thought they were so cool, just like pets.
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this day the water was beautiful and i could have grabbed one with my hand. the next day, i saw my friend spear fishing out there and he told me he shot one. OMG! shock! now there are 2 lonely omilu’s that will probably never come back. that sucks.
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back to surfing. Ban-chan surfed so much that he couldn’t lift his arms at the end of the day. great form!
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and when Ryo-kun rode the longboard, he caught 10x more waves than the short board. some days are for long boarding, some days are for short boarding. this day was long for sure!
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thank you Hayato-kun! hope you are enjoying your long hawaiian vacation. see you in the water!

June 24, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Nice Hunting!
Good morning 5:30am.
Bowls chest high and inconsistent. Long wait for sets.
Waikiki knee high.
Diamond Head shoulder high and side winds.
Windy trade winds this week at 25mph.
Super sunny summer days continue.
I’m going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

False Killer Whale

ok, who the heck always talks me into going fishing? i didn’t like it from the start, and after today, i don’t like it at all. i know for a fact that i’m not a fisherman. i don’t like to wait around for things to happen, i like making it happen. so i officially quit tuna fishing after today. maybe sometimes i’ll just go out and fish for katsuo if i see the bird pile. but yeah, diving is better suited for me.
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yes, i couldn’t sleep last night because tuna was in my mind. i wake up at 3am, meet the Kyle, Mason, and Nate at 4:30am, and start off in the dark. we arrive 18 miles away and throw in the lines. that was 5:40am.
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this is 11am and it was time to quit. haha. fishing is too boring for me, and not only me. maybe next time? no way! i’m officially finished! does anybody want to buy gold penn reels? haha.
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towards the end of our fishing day, we seen these rare false killer whales swimming near the boat. this is the very reason why there were no fish today. these whales eat tuna for breakfast. i was stoked to take some video of these rare and amazing creatures.
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check out these photos of false killer whales eating tuna. Kyle told me the other day a guy was reeling up a huge tuna and the whale came up and bit it in half. that’s crazy!
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this is the second time in my life i seen false killer whales so i guess today was a special day after all.
going back to my daily surfing routine tomorrow. i’m so glad i don’t have to have sleepless nights dreaming about tuna anymore. i’ll dream about barrels again! good night.