had a super fun morning session with Ueda-san from Nara. his first time in hawaii so i could tell he was nervous in the water. most japanese surfers are so kind that they won’t paddle for a wave if somebody else is paddling for it. i tell them “go, go, go, go, go!!!” then after the 5th “go” they go. haha. we surf again tomorrow so i’m sure he will feel a lot more comfortable in the water. i was impressed on Ueda-san’s surfing level. more ripping tomorrow!

first time surfing in hawaii, and first time poke bowl in hawaii. combination spicy tuna and shoyu tuna over rice. a perfect hawaiian surfers meal! get some good sleep and see you in the morning.

the waves were small today. biggest spot was diamond head and depending on the wind, i think we might end up surfing there tomorrow morning.

radio shack’s stock just went down under a dollar per share. back in the 80’s and 90’s, radio shack was the only place to go for electronics. i use to go into the store and dream and dream. i didn’t have money to buy anything but i use to go just to look. in 1999, the stock was trading for $80 per share. $0.92 cents today? so imagine all the stockholders that kept their shares all these years? huge loss! and the bad news that if the shares stay below $1 for 30 consecutive days, it will get pulled off the stock market. OMG! another giant company goes down!

my friend Derek sent me this photo this morning when i was driving to work. i had to pull over and laugh! haha! ahi fever! fishermen are dreaming ahi now. even me. my bedtime was at 8pm tonight but i drove 30 minutes to a guys house to buy some ahi lures. i just got home and it’s 10pm. i ended up buying lures and we ended up talking about fish. and this is a total stranger i just met tonight. super cool guy. i hope i get a day off soon so i can maybe catch a big ahi!
had a TV photo shoot this afternoon with this super famous comedian from osaka. from the time i met him, throughout our surf session, to the end, i was laughing and laughing. he was super funny and you should see how good he could surf. amazing! coming to osaka TV this summer.

Go-Naminori!

surfing is booming in japan. when i was there in april, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at ikumi beach in shikoku. cold water, full wetsuits, but full of fun!

and i totally understand when japanese surfers come to hawaii and are so happy to surf with only a few surfers out. it’s actually unbelievable for them.

but hawaii is hawaii and japan is japan. i actually miss surfing in japan. the surf culture is just so amazing.

when i need food, i just go dive.

and when i dive, i get food.

another steamed tako that’s going to go good with my beer! kanpai!