i had such a great time surfing with Oniyanagi-san. a very kind man with a kind heart.

and a very good surfer!

this was that dream session on sunday. just Oniyanagi-san and i surfing perfect bowls rights during the contest. then a japanese surfer girl came out and it was just the 3 of us catching wave after wave. nobody around to bother us.

Kyoko-san surfed really good. good style and good timing on catching the waves.

yes, we were very happy surfing a sunday with only the 3 of us out!

Oniyanagi-san walking to the nose. i don’t know when or if we will ever get a perfect right to ourselves again. it’s just one of those magical moments in life. enjoy it!

thank you Oniyanagi-san for the Buden Shouten tshirt! keep on surfing and hope to surf with you again!

Fashion or culture?
Good morning 5:45am.
Small waves again. Where is the new South swell? Maybe tomorrow? Bowls waist high and hopefully coming up later today.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Clear sunny day again. Blue sky in the afternoon.
I’m going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time with Kanako-chan this morning. such a cool girl from Kobe who i surfed with 3x in these past few years. super energetic, super genki, and super funny.

today she surfed the best yet! just perfect riding wave after wave!

usually Kanako-chan’s younger sister Sachiko surfs with us but she’s in san diego learning english for a year. but i was glad to talk to her today via skype.

and dimsum for lunch. gosh, it’s been a while since i ate in china town and i forgot how good it was.

this is my favorite: Shoronpo.

and another favorite sweet sour cabbage rice noodles. after this we ate sesame balls and i forgot to take a photo of my favorite chinese desert.

yes, another beautiful sunny day! just perfect weather!

then i went to take Nanami-san and her son surfing this afternoon. the waves were so good and not too many people out compared to the morning.

Liam is getting better and better. it’s only our 4th session and he’s catching waves by himself already.

Nanami-san surfing with Ai-san in the background. 2 cool surfer girls with only one thing on their minds, “surfing!”
tomorrow same thing, surfing 2 rounds! good night from hawaii!