Fried Nabeta!
The best!!!

had fun with Matsushima-san and Miyuki-san the day before yesterday. honeymooner surfers in hawaii. that’s so cool!

Matsushima-san on a super good wave!

Miyuki-san riding towards the rainbow!

then i went that afternoon to pick up Yumi-chan. hey Yumi-chan, i’m really sorry for making you cry. don’t be scared. for a girl that couldn’t swim 2 years ago, you are doing great. the waves you dove under were actually bigger than you thought. i just didn’t want to say it because i know you would have panicked more.

and the reason i kept you out in the big waves is to redeem yourself. never go in defeated! get back up, try again, and ride into the wild! good girl!

Good morning everyone!
South shore swell continues.
Solid 3′ sets or head high at Ala Moana.
Clean conditions.
No wind now but trade winds coming back later today.
Super sunny and warm.
Marathon surfing again.
Have a wonderful day!