the other day i was paddling out to surf and this turtle was just hanging out below me. just swimming under me while i was paddling so i took out my camera and shot this photo. then i seen some dolphins on the outside jumping around. what a wonderful place to have an office. i love going to work!

it’s been so long that i don’t remember the last time i went diving. but i clearly remember this diving day 3 years ago on a boat far off the shores in timor, indonesia. we went out for a late evening dive off this isolated island in the middle of the sea. we would jump in the raging current and drift over hot spots. the first hot spot, i picked off a GT. then the second one, i picked off a Uku. then we went back to the boat, made sashimi and sushi, and sipped on bintangs all night. it was a divers dream trip that i will never forget. i can’t wait for the next one!

Godzilla filming in Hawaii for next 2 months! Movie coming in Summer 2014.
Good morning 6:15am.
Small South swell.
Bowls shoulder high sets. Clean conditions. 30 surfers out.
Winds trades at 15-30mph.
Sunny day.
Surf 2x.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, it was a super windy day, but it’s ok when it’s blowing off shore. surfed 2x today and had super fun. then spent hours and hours online planning my upcoming trip. still don’t know for sure where i’m going, but where ever it is, it will be a journey. have one more week here in hawaii so going to surf as much as possible. the east trade wind swell continues!

yesterday evening i was leaning on the balcony sipping on umeshu and watching the sun go down. a few surfers catching the last few waves before dark. i thought to myself “what an amazing place hawaii is. to be able to surf 2x, eat a great meal, and enjoy a perfect sunset all in one day is awesome. i can’t wait till tomorrow.”
and when tomorrow came today, i did the exact same thing. i’m a very happy man right now!