昨日はダイアモンドヘッドのアウトサイドに親子クジラがいた。ボートのすぐ近くまでやってきた。肌の質感まで分かるほどの近さだったよ。
赤ちゃんはママのとなりでのんびり。so cute.
シークレットポイントでサーフィンした帰りにボウルズを通りかかるのは面白い。サーファー30人がアウトに出てた。
チャンネルからのナイスアングル。
この子はいつもいい場所で波待ちして、ウォールまでラインナップするパーフェクトインサイドの波に乗る。
off the lip!
これは”ドロップイン”。もしこれがコンテストなら、前にいる子にペナルティ。これがノースショアなら、怒鳴りつけられ、彼女が男だったらボコボコにされるよ。そういうの、何度も見てきた。
the south swells continue…
Mommy and Baby Whale
Mommy and Baby Whale
there was a mom and baby whale outside diamond head yesterday. they came pretty close to the boat. so close that you can see the texture in the skin.
and baby hanging out next to mom. so cute.
passing by bowls on the way back from surfing a secret spot all to ourselves was funny. there were about 30 surfers out.
nice angle from the channel.
this girl always sits in the right place and catches the perfect inside ones that line up all the way to the wall.
off the lip!
this is called “dropping in.” if this was a contest, the girl in the front would be penalized. if this was the north shore, this girl will get yelled at. and if this girl was a boy, he might get beaten up. i’ve seen it many of times.
the south swells continue…
March 12, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Elephant vs. Car.
Six people and One elephant die.
Good morning 6:05am.
North shore up at 3-5′ and bumpy. Cleaner conditions later. South shore chest high and looking really good.
Winds light in the morning becoming 10-20mph trade winds.
Strong 40mph winds on Saturday and Sunday.
Another perfect sunny and warm day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
