Monday September15日 2025年

Backdoor Barrels!


What an awesome morning session!

Miniature Sunrise Shell

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i like somen better than ramen or pho. i can’t wait to eat this wonderful present i just got today!
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i looked in my closet and found a skateboard i made about 20 years ago. i remember shaping it out of a piece of wood, staining it, drilling holes, finishing it, and putting it back into my closet. i totally forgot about it and now i’m ready to ride it!
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20 years old brand new! cool yeah!
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and look what i found on the north shore last week. i was walking on the beach at haleiwa on the way to go surf. i looked down and found this miniature sunrise shell. very very rare and priceless. why priceless? because this one has no price on it as it’s not for sale. i don’t think i’ve ever seen a tiny sunrise shell like this before. cool yeah!

March 10, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Three years ago today, history changed. Pray for Japan!
Good morning 4:45am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
South shore chest high sets and perfect.
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Perfect sun later today.
Have a perfect day!