Thursday November28日 2024年

Before Dawn Patrol

It’s been a while since we paddled out in the total pitch dark.  I couldn’t see anything when we got out to the lineup.  It was just by sound and feel.  

Daisuke-san was hearing and feeling it.  He caught some waves in the pitch dark.  He’s such a good surfer and a really nice guy.  

He caught so many perfect lefts.  I rode behind him on a few cheering him on.  

Another one all to himself.  Daisuke-san rode 5 perfect sets from start to finish.  I told him yesterday “if you get a set at Bowls, please don’t fall because everybody is watching you.”  And he didn’t fall once!  He was ripping!  

Riding good waves and paddling out with the biggest smile on his face.  This is surfing.

The fish were swimming under us all morning long.

Today was the least crowded of the whole week, and also the best waves of the whole week.  We scored!  Round 2 I went back out after lunch with a special guest.  I forgot to ask her if I can post her photo so better not for now.  But she got some really good waves and did great.  It was her first time surfing and probably not her last.  A new surfer girl is born?  

Round 3 with Dr. Ryu-san.  Fresh off the airplane as we surfed until the sun set.  He was so happy after riding his first wave.  I’ll post more tomorrow but I just wanted to say for now, “OMG, nice Dove wetsuit!  I love the colors!!!”

First Timer Hawaii

Daisuke-san’s first time to Hawaii, and first wave surfing in Hawaii!

Nice bottom turn and nice spray on this beautiful morning.

Off the lip!  Good surfing Daisuke-san.  So happy to see you on a good set wave at Bowls!

October 3, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Carter hard on the rail…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!