Yesterday once more:  Carter hard on the rail…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Daisuke-san and the rainbow! Rise and Shine from Ala Moana Bowls!

My first year of snowboarding was back in the early 1990’s.  It was then when I met this gentlemen named Taro Tamai.  I had no idea who he was but I heard he was the best snow surfer in the Japan.  The leader of the pioneer of surfers that went into the mountains in search of powder.  The weren’t trying to do tricks, they were looking for chest deep powder and carving the snow like surfing on a wave.  They were actually surfing the mountains!!!  The first time I saw him do a drop on the backside of Niseko, I thought to myself, “omg, he’s my hero!”    

A few years later, went on an Indo boat trip with Taro-san up in the Banyak’s when nobody knew where that was yet.  Surfing with nobody around in complete silence.  That was amazing too.  Anyway, Taro-san is another surfer I admire and respect very much.  And I’m sure there are millions of others around the world that feel the same way.

Look at Makiyo-san charging with her bodyboard!  We had such a wonderful session taking turns wave after wave.  It felt like a mini surf trip.  

Thank you guys for the inspiration, and thank you guys for being such positive role models for living a happy life to the fullest!