Thursday November13日 2025年

Heaven can wait

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did you hear about the elderly man that died in the hospital? the doctors pronounced him dead. they put him in a body bag. and later he woke up and said “let me out!” OMG! that’s crazy!
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so happy to see the walls up on Davis’s house in cambodia.
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i took this photo a while back of my friend Pakana after he speared this monster moana kali. this was at one of my secret spots near kewalo’s. now i feel like diving because i’m getting hungry for steamed fish.
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ok, i just got invited on a boat trip. a boat trip i’ve been longing to go on. not the mentawai’s, not the philippines, but somewhere far more remote. i’ve been there once in my life and the waves weren’t the greatest that time. so this time, i’m expecting better waves as we search for big barrels. i can’t wait!

March 2, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Poor sportsmanship. This is embarrassing!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore GIANT!
15-18′ and only outer reef breaks.
South shore TINY! Knee high at most spots.
Diamond Head best at chest high.
Winds are light North/West at 5-10mph.
Weather is rain all day.
Work is surf. See you in the water.
Have a wonderful day!

Children Shark Tours

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every weekend, i’ve been taking the girls free diving. i’m just trying to get them comfortable with the open ocean and the more they go, the better they get. these girls are still scared of sharks so guess there i take them? where sharks live of course. the more you see sharks, the more comfortable you will get. i drop them off with the boat on a spot where i know sharks live. i wait for the scream and just sit back laughing. they try to swim back to the boat but i’m too far away. all they have is each other. i yell “don’t panic, just relax and enjoy it.” they think i’m crazy. haha. the start to get use to it, they swim up and down with the sharks. after we came in, i ask them “want to go back there again?” they said “yes!”
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and of course we get to swim with the turtles. wait, i mean the turtles swim with us. in fact, they love the girls.
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how’s this cool photo i took. the waves were junky today and so was the weather. but once you go underwater, nothing else matters. it’s total silence and total nature.
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there were actually 3 sharks in the cave. so awesome to watch. next week shark tours again with the girls. i hope their parents don’t know what we do. haha. good night.