So fun waves!!!

i met the Keoni Yan family a few years back. Keoni is a young aspiring WCT surfer from Tahiti that is following his dreams. since the first time i seen him surf, i already knew he was going to be good! and his personality and well manners are going to get him very far ahead of the competition. Keoni is a very respectful kid with a very supportive mother and sister. i’m sure his family and sponsors are proud of him! good luck in going to the top of the surfing world Keoni!! good to see you and your family yesterday.

i’m sure that kid will never take his iphone on a canoe ever again.

i spent 2 hours yesterday searching the globe. so many options. choosing the country is the easy part, booking tickets and figuring out what to do is the hard part. most flights are full now but if there is a will, there is a way. i’ll spend 2 more hours on the internet today and if it happens, it happens. if it doesn’t, it doesn’t. life will roll on!

big international news coming out of Taiji in Wakayama, Japan right now. the media is blowing it up and i have a very strong opinion on this subject because i’ve been there before. over 250 dolphins captured in nets awaiting their fate. some for food, and some for amusement parks. i have just 2 things to say:
1. it’s been part of japanese culture for hundreds of years. so has pig hunting in hawaii, so has eating dog in the philippines, and so has eating monkeys in africa. culture is culture and you just have to respect that.
2. the international media and most of the protesters are the very ones that are guilty. if you take your kids to Sea World or amusement parks, you are the problem. if you watch movies or tv with dolphins such as Flipper, you are the problem. where the heck do you think all those dolphins come from?
anyway, when people in the outside world bash japan, i get upset. we kill pigs to eat pork, we kill cows to eat beef, we kill fish to eat fish. this is the world we live in and if you don’t like it, please move to another one.

Cambodia: The Killing Fields
Good morning 5am.
North shore 10-15′ and clean. Maybe HUGE Pipeline. Medium Waimea Bay.
South shore West wrap around continues. Yesterday head high, today little smaller. Perfect conditions with no wind. Onshore wind coming mid-morning. Super clear and sunny day.
Going dawn patrol sunrise surfing!
Have a wonderful day!