balance is the key to surfing. if you have good balance, you can surf. and if you don’t have balance, you can get it easily by surfing. one example of that is Inaida-san. i still can remember clearly the first time i took him surfing almost 3 years ago. he couldn’t paddle for a long period of time, and he had a hard time balancing on a surfboard. day by day, i could see the improvements. day by day, i can see the muscles forming. and day by day, i can see the confidence building. now, power and balance is a part of a lifestyle for Inaida-san. it’s an everyday routine that is making him younger and younger, and healthier and healthier. that’s freaking awesome!
speaking of power. Katsura-san is probably the strongest paddler i’ve ever seen. i’ve seen her paddle faster than a wave! and i’m not joking. so taking the long paddle out to a very secret spot was pretty easy for her. awesome photo by Yuki-san.

and want to thank Katsura-san for the snacks from japan! see you again soon!

Yumi-chan, thank you for sending me the encouraging emails. I really appreciate your kind words. Nice sunrise in the sunrise in Japan. We Are One! Take care and see you in Hawaii again!

Diamond Head clean, glassy, and fun right now!

Bangkok Shutdown! OMG!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 2-4 but coming up fast to 6-8′ later this morning. Clean conditions. South shore waist high at Ala Moana. Shoulder at Diamond Head.
Clean morning conditions but South/West winds coming early. Junky everywhere this afternoon. Full moon clear sky now. Sunny day!
20′ swell on Friday and maybe bigger one on Sunday!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!