i’m so proud of Seth and Isaiah. these 2 boys did so well this year on the north shore these past 2 seasons and now they are on the top of their game. placing 1st and 2nd at the Pipeline Junior Pro is amazing. it’s a bummer that only one could win but i’m sure these kids will keep on going 1st and 2nd in many more to come. what’s next? well, they finished their north shore season so will move back to town, surf contests almost every weekend, travel the world, free dive, boat trips, photo shoots, and much more. it’s a busy life being a professional surfer but nobody’s complaining. the kids have a gift and are using it in the right way. i’m so excited to see how far they will go.
can you believe it’s the end of march already? omg, i’m so excited to go to japan soon. it’s only going to be for a few days but even one day is nice. eat some good food, visit friends, and enjoy my time. it seems like i haven’t been off this island in a while. so excited!!!
and i was surfing yesterday and everybody was asking me “when is that south swell coming?” i said “what south swell?” a south swell was forecasted but didn’t arrive yesterday. i keep on telling people that it’s just too hard to predict a south swell. the storms are as far down to new zealand so by the time the swell goes across the pacific ocean, who knows what will happen. sometimes it comes, most of the times it doesn’t. you just have to wake up, check, and see for yourself. or better yet, check my morning surf report because i can see and smell waves in the dark. haha. summer is here and i’m stoked to be able to drive 10 minutes and surf perfect waves with my friends. see you in the water!

Tako Senbei from Ichikawa-san. Thank you!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 1-2′ and clean.
South shore waist high and clean. Maybe chest high sets later.
Everybody is waiting for South swell. Where is it?
Winds are light trades at 10mph.
Cloudy morning becoming super sunny and hot like yesterday.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i get to bowls this morning. get my camera out and put it on my bumper to get ready. then i check the waves and decide to check out kewalo’s because it might be better. i drive off. there is a contest at kewalo’s so we came back to bowls. OMG! i forgot my camera on my bumper??? lost. gone. sayonara! i’m bummed out but what could i do? go back and look for it? no way, somebody found it and is very lucky. i deleted all photos last night so there is no way i will get it back even if somebody wanted to give it back to the owner. it’s like i just saw $350 go flying away in the wind. life is short, move on. i forget about it all day long, but now i remembered and i’m bummed again. haha. if someone found my underwater digital camera with a float attached to it this morning along the road leaving the bowls parking lot, please be nice and give it back to me. thank goodness i uploaded all the data onto my computer last night.

spent a wonderful time with Iishi-san from Sendai. it’s his first time here to hawaii and we were so lucky to catch some good waves. Iishi-san surfs really good and i watched him do some nice turns at rockpiles.
then he asked me “how is Eggs and Things.” i told him “there is a better pancake place.” i took him to The Original Pancake House on Kapiolani Blvd and had an awesome brunch. corn beef hash and eggs with macadamia nut pancakes on the side. it was a lot of food, but we ate every bite.
by the way, my blog is acting weird again. some photos aren’t being uploaded. hopefully it will get fixed soon. my web designer is working on it now. it’s 10pm and i can barely keep my eyes open. going to sleep and hopefully wake up tomorrow morning with my blog working fine and my camera in my pocket. good night