today was an amazing day filled with amazing people. from dawn to dusk. might look a little busy but fun busy.

great to see Satoko-san back in hawaii. she hasn’t surfed since the last time she was here but she surfed like she was practicing every day. super good surfing this morning Satoko-san!

we surfed for 3 hours and for 2.5 hours, we had the whole place to ourselves!!! nobody near us and nobody to bother us. we just surfed, surfed, and surfed all alone!

then went to warm up with some hot pho.

then i went to meet Saito-san, Kanae-san, and Naoka for on afternoon dive. it wasn’t the best day for diving but we got to swim with a whole lot of turtles today. caught some fish, came in, and warmed up. today was probably one of the coldest days of the year. my feet are still freezing.

i always stop by and watch bowls on the way in to the harbor. and i always wish i had my surfboard. it looked super fun! here is Kanae-san getting the best front row seat.

then had dinner with my beautiful japanese surfer friends. these people are all so special and it’s amazing that we all came together through Go-Naminori!

and stoked to get updates from Hikaru-san who is in the mentawai’s with Kimura-san, Matsu, and Seigo-san. gosh, i wish i were there! why can’t i be in 2 places at the same time??? hey Hikaru-san, please take care of Kimura-san. taihen dakedo ganbatte ne! haha.
exciting fun busy days ahead. tomorrow i have a bikini photo shoot and i’m actually kind of nervous. better get to sleep. goodnight.

Welcome back to paradise!!!
Good waves.
Good surfing.
Good people.
Good rainbow.
Good day.
I love Hawaii!

my brother found me a cool hotel on my last night in cambodia. it cost $100 if you walk up and book it, but he got it online for $50. the H Hotel was just built and it was a great 5 star experience. good food, good staff, and good everything.

i see the pool and think “ok, i’m going in there for sure.” i went to change and totally forgot i didn’t have any trunks!!! i was even thinking of going in naked but didn’t want to get arrested. haha.

i had a great sleep and great time in this huge room. i checked out at 12pm and walked around the city for 5 hours, then my flight left at 11:40pm. i was so dirty and tired.

when i got to korea, i went to the lounge and took a nice shower. hot and fresh!

as i was flying back to hawaii, i looked down at pearl harbor and seen a submarine getting escorted out to sea. it reminded me of 20 years ago. i pulled up with my boat at the edge of this channel. i jumped in with my spear gun and was diving right at the right side edge. i was down 40′ on the edge looking down into the deep blue channel when i saw something huge coming toward me. i thought it was a whale!!! i stayed down in my camouflage wetsuit with my speargun pointed to it. after i looked good, it was a freaking huge navy submarine!!!! omg! it scared the shit out of me! then when i came up, a navy speed boat was coming at me 100mph. the blue lights on and loud siren. there was a military guy on the front of the speedboat pointing the machine gun at me. oh shit, i’m in trouble! he yelled in the speaker “WHAT THE FRICK ARE YOU DOING HERE!!!” i said “i’m so sorry!” i got yelled at, he took down my name and told me never to come back again. i said “YES SIR!”