always happy to see family shining in hawaii. Kelia Moniz got the new MIDWEEK cover and featured article. so proud of this once upon a little girl with a dream she is living right now.

2x world champion and she wants more? why not?

and good to see the kids pushing each other to new levels. solid family based on surfing ethics. amazing!
last, i took a video of Kelia Moniz after she came back from her first world championship 2 years ago. i remember telling her what a great job she’s done and i asked her to send a special message to her japanese fans. i forgot to post this but it’s never too late to say thank you. so thank you from Kelia Moniz!

Sunrise and stars!

i got up this morning at 4am. left my house at 7am, surfed, worked, meetings, shopping, phone calls, hot sun, salad bar, and i just got home now at 10pm. now i’ll work on my computer for 2 hours, then sleep very good. then wake up at 2am for a trip! no phones, no computers, no internet, no nothing. it’s just me, friends, the ocean, and nature. and if i don’t get back to oahu by friday, please call the coast guard.

early morning power up with yamari shirasu. what a great way to start off my day!

when we pulled up to diamond head, i couldn’t believe how glassy it was. surfed for 2 hours and had so much fun. it couldn’t have been a more beautiful day in hawaii.

met Kyle, Kimura-san, and Atsuko-san in front of the ilikai this afternoon. very close people to me and i’m super stoked to be connecting wonderful people with wonderful people.
anyway, better get going. tomorrow is one of the most exciting days for me in a while. i’m leaving new hawaii and will experience some old hawaii. can’t wait to get away from the high tech world we live in! good night.