this past thanksgiving, i dusted off my camera and took photos of friends. i was sitting in the bushes on a private secret beach when i seen a longtime friend walk by. Keoni Watson is a hardcore waterman. super cool guy who everybody in hawaii respects. i remember surfing amateur contests with Keoni back in the late 1980’s. it’s always good to see him but this time, he didn’t see me because i wanted to shoot the real Keoni Watson.

he was with a couple kids and i’m guessing one or both of them are his. the next generation waterboys!

Keoni always giving a helping hand. hey Keoni, it was nice to see you spending some family time on thanksgiving day. i’m eyeing out molokai and will give you a call for tips before i decide to do it.

and is this your kid? gosh, this little grom was ripping! good to see you passing on your knowledge to the next generation. see you in the ocean.

Drive safely!
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore UP! New 4-6′ North/North/West swell!
Backdoor/Pipeline looking good!
Pipe Masters 99% ON!
http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2013 South shore UP! New 2′ swell!
Trade winds 15-25mph today so off shore at Ala Moana and Pipeline. Overcast and cloudy sky but clearing up later.
Going surfing all day!
Be safe and see you in the water!

i was busy fixing up my boat this morning in the hot sun! omg, the weather is like summer now! after 2 hours of sweating in the sun, my boat is fully functional and running as perfectly as can be.

i took Yumi-san for an afternoon surf session. she’s been practicing in the pool ever since last month when she came to hawaii. gosh, her level went way up again! super good balance and super good paddling. she never fell once and rode so many good waves. then since she never snorkeled in her life before, i took her to one of my secret spots. she did a great job!

i’ve been using my boat more than i’ve been using a car. no stop lights, no traffic, and free parking everywhere! a stress free environment.

and yeah, today’s sunset was another awesome one! no green flash, but lots of pink sky!

thank you Yumi-san for a wonderful afternoon! see you again on wednesday!