Surf and Smile

check out the action yesterday morning. the girls requested a professional photo session taken by Daniel Pinho.
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my goal as a surf instructor is to take everybody’s surfing to another level. you can call me strict, you can call me loud, or you can call me mean. but after you’re done surfing, i can guarantee you that your surfing will improve a level or two. nobody knows the feeling of catching good waves better than i do. so my goal is to get you into the best wave of the day, and for you to surf your dream! and also bring out that smile that’s within yourself! here is Risa-chan getting ready for a great surf session.
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and safety is top priority. i’m always watching who i’m with, and always watching the whole ocean to prevent accidents.
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it was Miko-san’s first time surfing so we took it slow. but once i seen her paddling out, i knew she was going to be good. yeah, you can tell just by the paddle because it shows the confidence level. and when you have confidence, you can do anything.
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Risa-chan is always smiling! from the time i pick her up to the time i drop her off, she’s always smiling. what a great way to live your life.
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i try to get behind the person on some waves to push their limits even more. if you got me behind you yelling what to do, you will do it. haha. i try not to do this too much because it’s just too much pressure on some people. i was telling Risa-chan to turn right more and more!
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then the next wave, she did it by herself. i couldn’t believe how good she was surfing yesterday. 100x better than last year.
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i always tell people to turn right, ride the wave until it almost ends, then to turn left and ride it all the way. this is the start of the perfect left turn. first look left, then turn your shoulders left, then your body and board will follow. this is absolutely perfect!
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Miko-san was very nervous on the way to the beach. it was her first time surfing so she was totally new to the sport. after a few demonstrations on the beach, it was time to surf. she stood up on her first wave! that’s awesome for a first time surfer to stand up on their first wave. then we improved her form wave by wave. then after the 2nd wave she ever caught in her life, i told her “it’s time to go to the far outside and catch big waves!” we paddled out, and caught set after set. not too many people can jump up 3 levels in 3 waves but Miko-san did.
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she was turning right like she’s been surfing for years. i’m pretty sure she’s hooked and will surf for sure when she gets back to japan.
good job girls! keep on surfing in japan and hope to see you next year!

September 26, 2013 Hawaii Surf Report


Best surf for next week? PHILIPPINES!!!!
Typhoon on the left, tropical storm on the right.
Waves everywhere!
See you there!
Good morning 4:45am.
Too dark! Cannot see!
I think chest high waves at Bowls. Perfect conditions.
Diamond Head overhead and fun.
Afternoons much cleaner and much better.
Going dawn patrol surf, then airport.
Busy morning but very exciting!
Have a wonderful day!

Beach Sound

wow! had another awesome day surfing all day long! the waves were good, the surfing was good, and the smiles were good.
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Risa-chan and Miko-san caught so many set waves this morning. it was sunny, the rainbows were out, the waves were perfect, and it was just so much fun. then we went to eat mexican food after. omg, we were so full! they hired a professional photographer today so i should be getting the photos soon. stay tuned.
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we went to check out diamond head after lunch. the waves were side shore but when the sets came in, it was well overhead. ala moana side was much cleaner and better.
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then i went to pick up Akaike-san and Azusa-san for an afternoon session. Akaike-san gets trained by Katsura-san in japan so she’s super strong. both their surfing is getting stronger and better. i was so happy to see them surfing and enjoying the ocean! thank you very much and keep on surfing!
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and thank you Akaike-san for the Beach Sound clothes! like i said, this is the first pink jacket i ever got and i’m looking forward to wearing it! watch out for the new bright me!
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last, Hiromichi-san sent me this photo of a secret wave in taiwan. thanks for the invite and i’ll surely make it there someday!
after all the wave forecasting, friend reports, and long week of deciding where to go, i finally made up my mind to go to the philippines. just booked my flights but i’m a long way there. i will work tomorrow morning, then come home to grab my surfboard, camera, and computer, then head to the airport. a 9 hour flight to japan, a 3 hour stopover in narita, then another 4 hour flight and i will be in manila tomorrow night. going to get picked up by a friend, and do a week long road trip surfing and discovering new surf spots. probably sleep in the car a few nights, maybe on the beach a few nights, eat what ever we can, try new things, and explore deep into the philippines culture. i’m so looking forward to what ever happens because what ever happens, happens!