I would love to live here!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and more bumpy.
East winds and morning sickness conditions.
Sunny blue day!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

when i was riding my boat yesterday, i realized how happy i was in the sea. it’s just a totally different feeling. no traffic, no stops, no police, and no stress. just riding on the ocean feeling the fresh air blow into my face. the feeling of freedom!

i take my first drop about 35′ to the bottom of the reef. i wait as all the fish start swimming around me. i spot out this nice papio and start aiming my gun at it, then i feel a big shadow over me and as i looked up, a big 8′ shark swam over my head. i’m still aiming my gun at the papio thinking “should i shoot it?” i shoot it, i bring it in, put my knife in the head, blood everywhere, i look for the shark and it was nowhere to be seen. i better get out so i swim back to my boat. it was pretty exciting!

check out the hawaii contestant for the miss america 2014. her name is Crystal Lee and is only 22 years old. natural beauty! i hope she wins!

and last, my brother sent me more photos of the happy kids in cambodia. to think they have AIDS and no parents breaks my heart. but to see the smiles makes me think that they are very happy where they are. and to think that my brother is putting smiles on their faces makes me even more happy. these kids are making the best of their life and we should all learn from them. good job brother!

i drive past diamond head every single morning on the way to work, and drive past it again every evening after work. the feeling i have in the morning is “wow, i’m going to have a wonderful day!” and the feeling i have in the evening is “wow, i had a wonderful day!” ever since i’ve started to live my life day by day, things have been amazing. rain or shine, waves or no waves, i’m enjoying every single minute of each day. try it and you’re life will be a lot better.

i wanted to thank Miwa-san for sending me this photo of a secret island down south. super stoked to see Satoru-san on the first wave ever ridden there! Satu’s Point! yeah, i want to surf with you guys sometime! maybe next typhoon?

and wanted to thank Toco-san for sending me this amazing sunset photo from Ibaraki! i love the colors!!!! keep on surfing Toco-san!

and thank you Goto-san for these Koichi Japanese French Fries!
last, please watch this video my friend Bobby sent me.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7s22HX18wDY[/youtube]
when people give from the heart expecting nothing in return, good things happen. the gift of giving is amazing. try it and this world will be a better place. have a wonderful day!