wow, the waves were absolutely perfect again today. head high sets at Bowls and perfect glassy conditions. i paddled out expecting to get a couple waves, but ended up surfing for over 2 hours because the waves kept on getting better and better. no sunscreen so super sunburnt. took a hike deep into the mountains in the afternoon and the air was so fresh! what a cool place to be able to surf and go deep into nature in a matter of minutes.

want to cool down? just head to the mountain and the cool fresh air is the best way to do so. every breath taking in fresh clean air, and letting out stress. nobody around so it’s just you and the birds.

right now is ginger season so there are ginger blooming everywhere! along with the mountain apples, guava, and other fruit, the mountain smells like an open flower and fruit shop!

then you have free flowers blooming everywhere.

and free guavas. great for smoothies. then i went back into the concrete honolulu jungle and my first breath was carbon monoxide exhaust from the bus. yuck!

been seeing these drones recently? i see them flying all over the place. one just crashed into a crowd of spectators at an event in america. if someone dies, who is responsible? and can i just buy one and fly it over my friends houses and stuff? where’s the line?

Ocean all morning.
Mountain all afternoon.
Good surf, good nature, good Hawaii, good day!

ok, check out what they have planned for kakaako. 11 new high rise condos in the next few years. thousands more people, thousands more cars, and no new roads? there’s already too much traffic there now and i hate to see it 5 years later. might take me an hour just to get to kewalos. bummer.

yesterday was probably the nicest day for waves in the past month here in hawaii. it was super glassy, off shore, sunny, warm, and just perfect. this wave is overhead! Inaida-san enjoying a perfect wave with Yuki-san watching from the inside. what a cool photo!

then Yuki-san on a long perfect left. good surf, good food, good drinks, and good friends. what a wonderful hawaiian style life!

“please mr. typhoon slow down!!!!” this little tropical depression is forming into a typhoon. it’s in a perfect position to send some huge waves to japan, okinawa, taiwan, and the philippines. the earliest i can leave hawaii is sept. 18th so i’m hoping it will slow down and wait for me. i’m guessing that this will be the best typhoon of the 2013 season and i don’t want to miss it! “please mr. typhoon slow down! hope to ride you next wednesday!”

and last, i look at my grand nephews feet. then i look at his eyes. i see a child so pure. i hope he will hang ten when he gets older. and i also hope i’m the one to push him into his first wave.