what another wonderful day in hawaii! the waves, weather, people, and everything was perfect! woke up at 4:30am feeling so fresh! picked up Shibata-san and Yumiko-san and headed to the beach for our dawn patrol session.
it feels so good waking up early and breathing in the fresh dawn air. then looking out to the orange sunrise making the clouds pink in the background. once you hit the water, you wake up, you feel fresh, and you’re ready to surf. today’s first session was at Kewalo’s because i knew that was going to be the biggest and best spot. and yes, it was! head high sets with perfect rights and lefts! only a few locals out sharing the waves with us. round 2 happened at one of my secret spots that i will keep secret. nobody out! haha!

after looking at the pink sky with the perfect waves in the background, i thought it might be a good idea to get a couple shot. love love means love love. this couple is in love love.

and yes, everybody wants to visit the most famous tree in hawaii! in my whole lifetime, i never even seen this tree. then from 4 years ago, i visited this place over a hundred of times. it’s a japanese must stop tourist destination. but wow, this tree is pretty dam big!

Shibata-san’s been surfing for 20 years. he knows how to surf, and he knows a lot about surfing. but the thing that stood out these past 2 days with Shibata-san was his mannerism. such a gentleman to his girlfriend, and even a gentleman to me. just always making sure that everything is ok. i thought that was cool. and Yumiko-san such a sweet girl. just sitting on the beach in the hot sun watching us surf 2 rounds. no complaining, just enjoying the moment. after 2 days with this couple, i learned something very important. i learned that i should be more of a gentleman. not only to women, but also to men. it felt good being treating in such a nice way. and it felt good watching how Shibata-san took care of his girlfriend. so i pledge to be a better gentleman from today. i will open more doors, i will give more compliments, and i will always say “yes, you are right.” haha.

thank you Shibata-san and Yumiko-san for the yoku moku! and thank you for a wonderful 2 days of fun!

last, do you see something weird in today’s japanese newspaper? look at the top left corner? ゴナミノーリー? is that Go-Naminori?

Locals only!

my younger brother amazes me. after so many years working so hard his life, he finally found his place, found his vision, and found his love. traveling around the world earlier this year, he stumbled on an orphanage in cambodia. the children there have AIDS and have no parents. he fell in love with the kids, and now is devoting his life to them. he went back to his home in san francisco, packed his bags, picked up his dog, and flew back to cambodia where he will spend the next year or so teaching the kids english. teaching, helping, and loving children that really need it. i was happy for him when he moved to japan back in the 80’s and attended a university there. i was happy for him when he graduated, got a job for canon in tokyo, and lived as a salary man for 8 years. i was happy for him when he moved to hong kong and started modeling. then he came back to america and landed a really good job making a lot of money people only can dream of. that, i was jealous. haha. but now, i’m proud of what he’s doing. i’m proud of the sacrifice he made. i’m proud of him devoting his life to the children of cambodia. he already raised $7,880 and counting. that will go a long way to keep the children living with hope.

to my brother Davis, hey, i’m super proud of you. you are doing such a great thing. i’m happy you found your destiny. on your last trip back to hawaii, instead of renting a car, you caught the bus. instead of staying at a hotel, you stayed at Mason’s house. instead of eating out every night, you ate at home. and instead of spending money on yourself, you decided to keep it for your cause. i’d never thought to this day that i would learn from you but i have. i will support you all the way brother. keep following your heart and remember that we are all behind you. good luck in cambodia and i will see you there! Kirby
CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW HOPE CAMBODIAN LOVE FUND!