[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/69138889[/vimeo]
THROUGH THE LENS with Rob Machado
What an amazing video!
I’m proud to be a surfer!
Good morning 6am.
Super beautiful morning.
Clear sky and light winds.
Everywhere perfect conditions.
Ala Moana waist/chest high and super clean. 8 surfers out.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
I’m surfing all day!
Have a wonderful day.

slept so good last night! woke up super fresh, drank my kombucha, exercised for 15 min, then went surfing. by 10:30am, i already had a fulfilled wonderful day. the sky is blue, the water is warm, the people are friendly, and the waves were good. it feels good to be back home. right when i jumped into the water, i had a super exciting feeling and actually yelled “YEAH!!!” as it felt so good! i love traveling, but i also love hawaii.

had some photos left over on my desktop so uploading them now. Kenji Sahara was in hawaii a few weeks ago working hard as a professional photographer. i’ve known this guy forever!

always good to see my friends enjoying the very same ocean i enjoy! nice smile Kenji!

also had this sequence. i’ve known Kaito-kun for 3 years of his young 10 year life. being able to surf with him and enjoy the ocean every year is a dream to me. he was really scared the first time i took him surfing, but now, he’s confident, and ready for the challenge. i stay close to these kids all the time in the water talking to them, encouraging them, and laughing with them. then once i say “PADDLE!!!” it’s game on! this kid knows what to do from then.

then my camera records their smiles. bend your knees, look forward, and smile! the 3 keys to enjoy the ultimate ride. Kaito-kun couldn’t have done a better job.

and yes, good work deserves praise. in hawaii, we call this “high five.” such a cute kid with a cute smile! see you again Kaito-kun!

starting tomorrow, i’ll be in the ocean 2 or 3 times a day for the next 22 days. i’m looking forward to that!

Body Sushi. Did you ever try this?
Good morning 7:30am.
Wow, good sleep!
Feel so genki!
Waves chest high at Ala Moana. Super clean conditions.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean too.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Super sunny sky.
I’m going naminori!
Have a wonderful day!