High surf advisory for all South shores in Hawaii.
Welcome to Big Wednesday!
Good morning 5:30am
Huge waves again!!!!
Bowls solid 6′ breaking outside of the red buoy. Clean!
Ala Moana Park going off! 4-6′ and barreling.
Waikiki perfect too.
Everywhere good waves and good conditions.
Trade winds so offshore all day.
Sunny sky.
I’m surfing all day!
Have a wonderful day and see you in the water.

i was happy to see some media news on the hawaiian team going to nicaragua for the world championships. our team won the gold medal last year and i’m hoping that they can do the same this year. my 2 nephews Joshua and Seth Moniz are on the team so please cheer them on! thank you KITV news for supporting our future.

team manager Rainos Hayes has been a long time friend of mine. we use to compete against each other in our amateur days. good to see Rainos leading on our team. that has always been on of my dreams to coach the hawaiian or japan team. maybe someday it will happen.

i still can’t believe i took Team Inada-san out to huge closing out rock piles yesterday. as i was paddling out, one of my local friends was coming in and told me “hey kirby, the waves are huge and getting even bigger by the minute. i don’t think it’s a good idea for you to take them outside.” i looked at him and said “ikushikanai!” which means, we have to go! and we went! imagine double overhead powerful waves crashing on your head, then your heavy longboard dragging you in? days like this make strong men even stronger. good job team!

2 days ago front row seats at rock piles left. this is the best summer in the history of south shore surfing. lucky!

OMG! the waves were awesome today! the swell picked arrived earlier than expected to that means it will stay around longer. in my entire life living here in hawaii, i don’t think i ever surfed as much as i did today. i surfed 4 rounds at about 8 hours in the water. first, i surfed bowls in the morning. the waves kept on getting bigger and bigger so i came in, threw my board in the truck, wrapped my wet shorts with a towel, and sped over to big rights. paddled out and got barreled!

then i was starving so i stopped by yamagen to eat my favorite katsu curry plate. so good! then i picked up Team Inaida-san and we challenged ourselves to the biggest waves rock piles had to offer. it was huge and i don’t even know how we all made it out to the lineup. after a few waves and a few obake “freak” sets, we all came in alive. great job team! then i sped back over to big rights to get some more barrels. the waves were perfect 5′ and barreling. i broke my leash this morning but stayed out anyway because it was too good to go in. it was an amazing day!

after 4 times of the long paddles out to the spots, and after spending 8 hours in the water, i felt like a high school kid surf bum. i haven’t surfed so much in a day in my life. i am so sunburned, my arms are like rubber, and i’m so tired. tomorrow the waves should be bigger and better. i’m planning to spend 8 hours in the ocean again, but maybe only 3 rounds. i couldn’t be any more satisfied right now as the happiest surfer in the world. good night and good life.