i still can’t believe i’m here in bali. seen some friends here and they told me “why didn’t you tell me you’re coming?” well, i didn’t plan to come here so i told them, i actually planned to go to central america. then they look at me like i’m either lying, or crazy. no, i’m not lying, but i might be crazy. coming to bali almost every year since 1993 has made me grow up. i see the fast pace life, i see the changes, and i see the culture. no, i can’t adjust to a lifestyle like this, but to hang here for a few days is like a dream. bali bagus! Aria took this photo the other day at a secret spot down the road as i was about to paddle out early sunrise time for a great barrel session.

i wanted to surf everyday. i’m not trying to have marathon sessions, i just want to jump in, catch a few barrels, and enjoy the rest of the day. i’m doing exactly that! and when i get back to hawaii in 2 days, there will be a south swell waiting for me. unbelievable luck! by the way, here i’m riding my 6’0 TSSC round pin shaped by Matchi. this board works good and i love it!

i’m a photographer, so when i see a perfect situation of capturing a good photo, i take it. i saw this setup yesterday and i was thinking “Roxy” all the way. i snapped the shot and this is a Roxy ad for sure. makes you just want to jump in the photo right? a perfect screensaver from the beautiful island of bali!
i leave tonight and i’m looking forward to coming back. yeah, it’s super crowded and lots of traffic, but i’m still experiencing things i like to experience. everyday passes and i keep on telling myself “life is short, so enjoy every minute of it.” i’m enjoying every single second!

well, another awesome day passed and i’m super happy i came to bali. i learned something really important this morning, i’ll get to that later. first, check out the action from the final day of the Oakley Bali Pro!

2x world champion Mick Fanning lost his fire in the quarter finals. i surfed 2 mornings before the contest with guy out and i still couldn’t believe how focused he was. you could just feel it.

from round 1, Joel Parkinson was the man to beat. perfect surfing in every and all conditions. where other surfers had to adjust, Joel was already adjusted. he’s getting better and better.

i walked around to the pool side to get another angle. i couldn’t believe how many people were there.

Nat Young had to have been the best backsider of the whole contest. big barrels, big turns, and big scores.

Julian Wilson at Off The Wall Keramas.

Michel Bourez is the first tahitian surfer that almost won a WCT. this guy was on fire! i really like his surfing style. strong and never holds back. gosh, i really was wishing he won the contest. that would have been a huge tahitian surfing history moment.

remember Michel Bourez because i will be anybody that this guy will win a WCT contest soon. and with the next WCT in tahiti, it just might be his time.

this is how you do a power turn. not too many surfers can push it as hard as Michel.

i was right there on the beach when Joel Parkinson came out of the water after his huge win. he was smiling ear to ear! so stoked for this guy, and so stoked for surfing in bali.

a successful event consists of: good waves, good surfing, lots of people, and live streaming media to the whole world. this first time WCT in indonesia was very successful. i’m sure you will see more to come.

now everybody in bali knows who Joel Parkinson is. and everybody in the world knows where Keramas is too. scary!
oh, remember i told you i learned something very important today? well, yesterday evening, i went for a full body oil massage. was too tired to take a shower and just fell asleep. pulled up to kermas this morning and went for a surf before the contest. i paddled out, took off on my first wave, and slipped. slipped again and again. i had oil all over my feet and my wax wasn’t working. i felt like a beginner. so what i learned is never to get a full body oil massage the day before i surf, OR, next time, take a shower. haha.
last day in bali tomorrow. going to enjoy it! good night.

So many people!!!!
So fun!
So hot!
So hungry!
So tired!