it was such a great adventure on molokai. since i’ve been back, so many people have been asking me about that mysterious island. it’s not a place for everyone. it’s a place where you can’t plan anything, you just have to go with the flow. we just went with the flow and the flow was awesome. i’ve seen and picked some big opihi in my life before, but this one was the biggest i’ve ever seen. i didn’t even know they get this big. i will never forget this spot we just swam out too. the cool thing is that i know more will be there when i get back. why? because that’s how molokai is.

and after all those opihi’s and steak, Toda-san looked so happy taking a nap.

have you ever seen 2 turtles making love? omg! these 2 turtles were making love right in the waves. we watched for 20 minutes and it was better than any animal planet showw on tv. this was real!

i still can’t believe Josh is junior world champion. over 30 countries competed sending their best, and Josh was #1. i’m still tripping out. the best under 18 junior surfer in the world? omg, wake me up!
here is the final day highlights. i also wanted to congratulate Team Japan for an amazing performance. finally i get to see Japan compete with the worlds best and kick some ass. you all did good!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRZEc7dc5OM[/youtube]

Tree tent. This is so cool!
Good morning 5:30am.
South shore up from yesterday.
Chest high at Ala Moana and 20 surfers at Bowls already. Clean conditions.
Diamond Head bigger but windy.
Trade winds at 15-20mph.
Sunny sky.
Going surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

i had a wonderful 2 days of surfing with Ikeda-san. a very active man who walked from his hotel in waikiki to diamond head, hiked to the top, then walked around diamond head back to his hotel. a very active man who bodyboarded 5 hours in waikiki. a very active man who walks for hours each day. and a very active man who loves to surf. we talked and i got to know Ikeda-san pretty well. but i had no idea he was a young 62 years old! omg! i was truly inspired by this healthy and active man. thank you Ikeda-san!

Ikeda-san also taught me new things about hawaii. he told me where and what he wanted to eat. it was a small take out shop in kalihi and it was delicious! the crab meat ahi wrapped in nori and deep fried. it was awesome!

i’m watching the weather as 2 typhoons in the past week are threatening japan. us surfers wish for heavy rain, followed by the right wind and swell direction. once all three happen, i’m jumping on an airplane and surfing some of the best waves in the world. last trip was just a little warm up for me. here is Hikaru at her home break in Kamogawa.

and you just never know who you will bump into. i went to bali about 18 years ago with Katsuya Matsumoto. we surfed good waves back then and i’m super stoked to see him still surfing. good to see you in kamogawa. peace bro!
been scoring some good waves here in hawaii. it’s been not too small, not too big, and not to crowded. just perfect! it’s going to be like this for the next whole week! happy summer!