Japanese Soba for lunch.
Itadakimasu!

i was digging through photos and found these. i was shooting photos at log cabins on the north shore. then i seen these tourists go near the ocean and i knew it was just a matter of time that one was going to get swept in by the current. well, 2 of them actually did so i sat back and watched. there were enough surfers in the water and i knew they react fast so everything was under control.

pro surfer josh kerr was one of the first to get to the drowning guys. then when i seen my nephews paddle over to help, that’s when i got scared. i know that when you are about to drown, you will cling on to anybody and anything. if one of those big tourists grabbed one of my nephews, it could have been trouble. then i seen seth throw his board to the guy and swim away. that’s how you do it. i was so proud of him.

then instead of making a big scene and calling the coast guard or helicopter, josh kerr just pushed the guy into the shorebreak. yeah, everything is under control. look at kelia paddling up the wave laughing.

i know exactly how this guy is feeling. he’s thinking “omg, i almost died!” i’m pretty sure he won’t be playing in the shorebreak again.
*anyway, if you are in a situation to save a drowning person, PLEASE DON’T GET CLOSE TO HIM. because once he grabs you, he won’t let go. a lot of people that try to help actually drown this way. put a board or something between you and him. or go from the back of him and put him in a choke hold and drag him back to the beach.

Looks like fun! Haha.
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore 2-3′ and bumpy and junky.
South shore waist high and morning sickness. Better conditions later.
Wind is from the North/East at 15-25mph.
Weather is cloudy in the morning becoming sunny later.
Next big North/West swell on Thursday.
I’m going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!