Greg Long is Big Wave World Champion! Go-Big!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and coming up.  8′ this afternoon.  Little morning sickness.
South shore waist high and low tide.  Clean conditions and better in the afternoon.
Winds are light trades at 5mph.
Weather is going to be beautiful.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Happy birthday Maki-chan and Ai-chan!
Hope you have a wonderful year ahead!
Cheers!

OMG, how was the heavy rain all day long!!! wet hawaii will turn green in a few days. but for now, get use to the rain because it will be here for a few more days. i went for a sunrise surf this morning and it felt so good. nobody out, fun waves, and just me and nature. then surfed this afternoon again. it was a sunny day for me!

hello Mr. Takeda-san, glad you had a great time in hawaii. thanks for the photos and hope to see you again soon.

and to Mrs. Takeda-san, it’s so fun seeing you catch so many long waves. keep warm in japan and keep on surfing.

and your paddle you bought in hawaii looks so beautiful in your house!

last, i miss going on short trips. i remember this time we all went to molokai to film a hawaii skin diver tv program. it took me back to hawaii 100 years ago with all the beautiful untouched nature and all the aloha. my boat is ready for a molokai trip, my paddle board is too, but my schedule isn’t. the next time i get 2 days off and the weather is nice, i’m going to molokai!