Do you need a spare tire? OMG!
Good morning 6:20.
North: Small. 1′ and morning sickness.
South: Almost. Knee high and perfect.
Wind: North/East at 15-25mph.
Weather: Cloudy, Sunny, Rain, Bows!
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day.

did you ever see a seal eat a shark before? i sure haven’t. but now
you can. this is amazing footage of a seal taking out a shark.
nature is so freaking awesome!
well, surfed all day long today. spent 5 hours in the ocean surfing
and laughing. from morning with Mr. and Mrs. Chuma, to afternoon
with team Inaida-san. groups of fun! we had photographers and
cameras everywhere. about 1000 photos and some video that has to be
downloaded to my computer. i guess i’m not getting too good sleep
tonight. stay tuned.
the waves were super fun. super clean, super sunny, and super
offshore. sunburnt, tired, thirsty, hot, and need a good sleep. but
before that, say hello to the champagne! haha!
big north swell on friday night into saturday, but before that, more
fun surf sessions in town.
i’m a busy guy so better get going. have a great evening.

With Mr. and Mrs. Chuma.
Good waves.
Good food.
Good see.
Good day.