i think i’m getting screwed recently. check out one of the tires in the truck? ouch! then i look around to the other tires and guess what?

another screw in another tire. 2 different screws in 2 different tires. what the heck did i run over? i remember a few years ago i was driving on the freeway and seen a box fly out of a truck in front of me. it opened up and i ran it over. i surfed backdoor that day and when i was going to go home, one of my tires was flat with a nail sticking out. then i look around and 3 tires had lots nails in them. i remember stopping at goodyear tire in mililani and spending $480 that day and waited 3 hours. i’m not looking forward to fixing these tires because i know it’s freakin expensive. i’ll just drive around like this for a while. haha.

check out this tube shot kenny took 2 days ago while we were surfing. if you look good, you can see Yuki-san, Inaida-san, and me through the barrel. cool!

and as i was running back in the water yesterday to grab a board, i kicked the crap out of a rock. the rock won, and my baby toe lost. throbbing sharp pain and nail fully torn off. i’ve never felt so much pain in a while. it’s broken for sure but guess what, it didn’t hurt when i surfed today. only when i got out of the water. haha.

Corn beef hash and eggs.
So good and so full!

yesterday was such a long day. in the ocean for 5 hours and loving it. i surfed in the morning with Mr. and Mrs. Chuma. the nicest couple from nara prefecture. the water was clean, the sun was out, the sky was blue, and the waves were perfect. what more could you ask for?

it was Junko-san’s first time surfing. it was so good to see the smile on her face as she experienced the best life of all, the surfing life.

Chuma-san didn’t surf for years. but after his first wave, he got it all back. he told me that their new surfing lives will start from now. live healthy, and live happy! i wish you both the best!

please enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii and hope to see you in the water again someday. keep on surfing!
afternoon surf session coming soon. have a beautiful day!