OMG, how was the heavy rain all day long!!! wet hawaii will turn green in a few days. but for now, get use to the rain because it will be here for a few more days. i went for a sunrise surf this morning and it felt so good. nobody out, fun waves, and just me and nature. then surfed this afternoon again. it was a sunny day for me!

hello Mr. Takeda-san, glad you had a great time in hawaii. thanks for the photos and hope to see you again soon.

and to Mrs. Takeda-san, it’s so fun seeing you catch so many long waves. keep warm in japan and keep on surfing.

and your paddle you bought in hawaii looks so beautiful in your house!

last, i miss going on short trips. i remember this time we all went to molokai to film a hawaii skin diver tv program. it took me back to hawaii 100 years ago with all the beautiful untouched nature and all the aloha. my boat is ready for a molokai trip, my paddle board is too, but my schedule isn’t. the next time i get 2 days off and the weather is nice, i’m going to molokai!

my south america trip seemed so long ago. it was something so different for me. different culture, different faces, and different people. it felt good to be different for a while.

i will never forget this night i spent at the hippie camp. spending quality time with total strangers was cool. here is Diego playing live on his hand drum. it was amazing as the whisky was going down too easy.

no electricity, no running water, no gas stations, and no nothing. it was a hippie village totally far from civilization. i was actually scared when i decided to stay there but once i got settled in, i didn’t need anything either. these 2 girls were playing outside like there was no tomorrow.

and yeah, when in rome, do as the romans do. right? so i put over the Uruguay Football flag, grabbed a drink, and cheered for a sport i don’t even know how it’s played. haha.

and of all the days i spent there, i tried not to miss a sunset. they were just too dam beautiful!
my next destination is South Africa. want to go deep into the jungle and play with the elephants and lions. stay tuned.

Cool bicycle!
Good morning 5am.
North shore small at 1-2′.
South shore chest high.
Winds are from the North/East at 15mph.
Weather is cloudy becoming sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!